Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner V: 5 More Basic Stitches & Techniques

Here're five more basic amigurumi techniques (click here for Part I):

7. Magic Circle or Ring

See my earlier post on how to do the magic ring

Now that you've mastered the single crochet, let's go back and learn the magic ring, the preferred way of starting an amigurumi round.
Also called: adjustable ring, magic loop
Good to know: You can substitute the initial "Ch 2. __ sc in 2nd chain from hook" instruction with the magic ring, doing the designated number of single crochets in the ring.
Tutorial: Check out my previous post.

8. Increase
Abbreviation: inc
How to: If you know how to do a single crochet, you know how to increase. Instead of working one single crochet into a stitch, you do more than one, which will increase the overall width (in rows) or circumference (in rounds).
Sometimes the pattern will just say "2 stitches in the next stitch", instead of "increase", and that's exactly what this is.
Purpose: Increasing (and decreasing) helps shape your amigurumi.
Good to know:
• Usually you will space out your increases evenly across the round. In patterns, for example, you'll see:

*1 sc in the next 2 st, inc* repeat 2 times 

We'll look at deciphering patterns later, but the above basically means:

Stitch 1: 1 single crochet

Stitch 2: 1 single crochet

Stitch 3: 2 single crochets in the same stitch (= increase)

Stitch 4: 1 single crochet

Stitch 5: 1 single crochet

Stitch 6: 2 single crochets in the same stitch (= increase)

In your previous round, you have 6 stitches, and in this round, you'll have 8 stitches because of the increase.

• It's important to keep your increases gradual and incremental. If you increase too drastically right away, you'll end up having a bunched up look.
• Increases are easy to do, but keeping track of how many stitches you've done and when you need to increase can be tricky in the beginning. Try a stitch counter.

9. Right Side and Wrong Side
• The "right side" (abbreviation: RS) = the front of your piece
• The "wrong" side=  the back.
How to tell: The stitches look different (check out the video below)
Another quick way to tell in amigurumi that is worked in rounds is that the side with the yarn tail from your magic circle sticking out is the "wrong" side.
Good to know: Whether you choose to show the right or the wrong side of your piece to the world is really up to you, and unlike the names, there really is no right or wrong. To ensure your amigurumi's surface looks uniform, you just have to make sure that all your pieces have the same side showing.
More information and comparison: 
• All About Ami 
• Video from Nerdigurumi comparing the differences. Interestingly, the sizes and shapes of the balls change depending on which side you've showing:

10. Front Loops and Back Loops
You will come across instructions that tell you to work in a specific part of a stitch, so what are they talking about exactly?
Let Stitch Diva Studio explain with a photo tutorial.

Source: Stitch Diva Studio

Good to know: Stitches that are worked in, for example, just the front loop, will look different from stitches that are worked in, say, the back loops. Crochet makes use of the different looks to add texture to your piece.
Take a look at this Crochet Spot's comparison.

11. Decrease
Abbreviation: dec, sc2tog (single crochet 2 together)
We saw how an increase makes the "circle" get bigger earlier. To make it go smaller, you'll need a decrease. Here, you're trying to join two stitches in the previous round together by making one stitch only.
How to:  
1. Skip a stitch: generally not recommended because of the hole you'll leave in your piece.
2. Insert the hook into one stitch, yarn over, and draw up a loop. You don't complete that stitch, but insert the hook immediately into the next stitch, yarn over, and draw up another loop. Now you've three loops on your hook. You yarn over, and pull through all loops at once.
However...
I've never done anything but Planet June's invisible decrease to make sure the amigurumi looks as good as it can without too many bumps and holes caused by the decrease.

Source: Planet June. Click here for the left-handed version

You can also check out All About Ami's photo tutorial on how to do an invisible decrease.
p.s. An invisible decrease requires you to work in the front loops, hence all that talk earlier about parts of a stitch.

Putting it all together: Let's crochet something already!
Now that you have all these stitches and techniques in your bag, let's try doing a common sphere shape, which will make use of the magic circle, single crochet, increase and decrease.
I find following videos and crocheting along is one of the best way to learn. Reading instructions can give you a headache sometimes, but if you've someone there to guide you through it's a lot less painful.

Here's one version of crocheting a ball. You'll find others on youtube.

Video from unwindpatterns

Note: The crocheter in the video uses two different decreases techniques. You can see how your piece will look, and you can also substitute one row with the invisible decrease and see which method you like better.

Win 5000 Feet of Yarn!

The Crochet Crowd and AllFreeCrochet are holding a Crocodile Stitch Challenge contest (deadline September 30). Enter and you'll have a chance to win 5000 feet of yarn. Fancy that!  Check out the online contest information.

See also my posts on the crocodile stitch: How to  •  Pattern: Crochet Owl

Free Crochet Pattern Roundup:Moo Cows

At the fair the other day, we walked through the barn and saw a whole ton of cows. They looked nice and relaxed and kids were all snuggled up with them and didn't bother them one bit.  Not as many white and black kinds as you'll find in cow amigurumi though.

Studio Ami has definitely perfected the idea of "cuteness".

Free pattern from Studio Ami

A more anatomically correct cow perhaps?

Free Ravelry download from Marika Allely

And here's a cow tipping toy, complete with a noise maker.

Free pattern by NeedleNoodles via Instructables

How about a cow puppet to practise your moos?

Instructions from Crafting Creatures

Have fun crocheting!

Quick Tip: Single Crochet in Reverse (technique from tapestry crochet)

When I made my Neapolitan Ice Cream Popsicle, one thing that irked me was that the strawberry and vanilla parts are done in rounds, while the chocolate part has to be done in rows. Because doing rows involves turning, the back of the stitches will show up in alternate rows on the outside of the popsicle (the "right side" in crochet terms).
I tried to tell myself that the stitches look close enough, but I know they're not.

Here's how turning makes your piece look. Notice the ridges on the surface.

At that point, the only alternative way I could find is not to turn and just crochet with your other hand (left in my case) every other row. I tried, believe me, I tried, but my left hand just wasn't cooperating.

Today, I stumbled upon a video on flat tapestry crochet, and long and behold, there is a way that doesn't involve me trying to be ambidextrous.

Meet single crochet in reverse. 

All you have to do is that for the rows where you're working with the wrong side of the piece facing you, you insert the hook into the stitch from back to front, instead of the usual way.

Here's a demo from Toni Rexroat from CrochetMe:

And this is how your piece will look like (left), compared to the original (right):

Hurray! The stitches look the same on the right side.

I know I'm probably being too picky, but it can make a difference on an amigurumi. Anyway, just another technique for your consideration. Enjoy!

Free Crochet Pattern Roundup: Coffee

It's seven in the morning and all I can think of that cup of Joe, so while mine is brewing, I thought I'd look up some coffee patterns.
My absolute favourite is Britanny's "You Made Me So Frappe", even though I generally drink black coffee.  The fabric paint looks exactly like syrup.

Free Ravelry download from BritannyJackson

This looks exactly like the cup of coffee I'm going to get...

but wait a second, look at the bottom!

Free pattern from The Left Side of Crochet

So, this is supposed to be a cup of tea, but minus the teabag and you'll have a great pattern for a cup of coffee.

Free pattern from Lion Brand Yarn

And looking for ways to decorate your coffee (you know those fancy frothed milk patterns?) Take inspiration from the following:

From Roses n Lilies

From Bitter Sweet

Mmm... Smells so good.  Thank you to all the above people who have shared their patterns online.

Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner IV:6 Basic Stitches & Techniques

Alright, you've got your hook and you've got your yarn. Now we're ready to make something.
To create amigurumi, there are not too, too many basic stitches you'll need to know. Since there are many video tutorials online, I'm going to jot down quirks I've learned along the way, and list good links to check out instead of reinventing the wheel.

Note: UK and Am patterns use different terminology, so be sure to check which version of terms the pattern is using.

Here are the basic stitches / techniques. Feel free to jump to the video tutorials if you just want to get right to it.

As you may have read from this post, many amigurumi pieces begin with a magic ring. However, to make a magic ring, you need to know how to do single crochet. So, to practise this common stitch, I'd recommend learning to do a chain first.
Making chains is useful to know anyway when you need to crochet something flat, like an applique for your amigurumi.

1. Slip Knot: Getting the Yarn on the Hook Before You Start

There are many different ways to tie this knot onto your hook.
Here are a couple: Crochet Spot • Stitch Diva Studios
Good to know: Slip knot doesn't count as a chain / a stitch.

2. Holding Your Yarn Just Right
With one hand holding your hook, the next thing is to figure out how to hold what is called the working yarn in the other hand.
There are again many different ways to do this. The important thing here is to keep the tension on the yarn at a comfortable level as you crochet.  Most people on crochet videos I've watched have the yarn wrapped around their pinky finger, and they bring the yarn up and over the pointer finger, using those two fingers to adjust the amount of yarn you're "feeding" to your work.
Example: Crochet Spot

3. Yarn Over Hook (Often seen in patterns as YO)

Another fundamental in crochet. After you insert your hook, you will wrap the yarn around your hook before you draw your hook back out. In some stitches, you'll also wrap the yarn before you insert the hook. As the name implies, make sure the yarn is "on top" of the hook and not under.


4. Making a Chain

Pop quiz: how many chains have been made so far?

Next we'll make a chain (also called foundation chain). It looks very similar to the paper chains you may have made when you're small.
Abbreviation: ch

Chart symbol: circle / oval
Good to know:
• The slip knot doesn't count as a chain (even though sometimes it suspiciously looks like one)
• The loop on your hook also doesn't count.
• You want your chains to be uniform in size. Using your thumb and middle finger to hold onto the previous chain as you make the next chain will help.

Chain Stitch Tutorial: Moogly

5. Crocheting into the Chain

The middle strand is basically the bottom strand of the next chain

I didn't realize there are different ways to crochet into the chain until way later, and I was doing it not necessarily the wrong way but just not the most desirable in my opinion.

Insert your hook under the top strand of the chain

Or insert your hook under the top and middle, right above the bottom strand

Or turn your chain over and insert it into the "hump" on the back of the chain

All three ways are "right" so to speak, and it's really a matter of personal preference. Detailed explanation can be found at Crochet Cabana. If you like your stitches nice and snug you may want to avoid the first method.

6. Single crochet: Basic of Basics
Finally! Now you're ready to build on that chain you made.
Abbreviation: sc
Chart symbol: X or + sign
UK equivalent: double crochet
Use: The bulk of what you'll do in amigurumi is single crochet, and that's why most people will tell you that amigurumi is not too, too hard to learn, because you don't have to know a lot of the fancy crochet stitches.
Tutorial: Crochet Spot, or check out the following video.

Video and Illustrated Tutorial: Lion Brand

And putting it all together...
Watching someone else is my preferred way of learning, so here're some links and great videos that can show you all the things we've talked about so far. Keep an eye on how these crocheters hold the yarn and do yarn over and all that.
• Hooks and Needles: this is the series of videos I watched a few months ago to learn to crochet. These were the only tutorials that made sense to me at that time.
• How to Start Crochet with Mikey: The first 6 minutes of so of this video covers all the above techniques, then it moves to doing double crochet. You can't get clearer instructions than Mikey's in my humble opinion.

Video tutorial from Mikey

• SassySophelia: First 6 minutes or so shows how to do a slip knot, a chain and single crochet.

Phew. That was a long post, and we've only just got to the fun part. More basic stitches and techniques to come...

Amigurumi Pattern: Blue Badger from Phoenix Wright Ace Attorney

"Wriggling piece of plywood"

After I've crocheted some stuff for myself, I wanted to make something for my husband as a surprise. I had to secretly work on it for weeks. I told him I was crocheting something for him, but he couldn't quite figure out what. Success.
And here he is: Blue Badger!
My husband loves his video games, and he'll often attach himself to these weird but cute characters in them. Blue Badger is one of his favourites. Blue Badger is the mascot of the police department from the DS game Phoenix Wright: Ace Attorney, and all his fans know the tune to his little dance.

Not sure how many people are going to make their very own Blue Badger, but I thought I'd put the pattern down anyway.  Hope you like it!  Sorry I don't have any more pictures of the individual pieces. I always forget to take pics during crocheting.

Yarn, Hook and Other Materials:
(feel free to substitute with your favourite worsted weight yarn and hook size)
E hook / 3.5mm hook
Light blue yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Light Blue
White yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch White
Yellow yarn: Red Heart Kids Yellow
Small amount of red yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Really Red
Small amount of grey yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Pewter
Small amount of black yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Black
Yarn needle to weave in ends and sew mouth
Grey and black embroidery thread
Small piece of white and black felt
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
A toothpick and black felt pen

Dimensions / Gauge:
Blue Badger is approximately 7" tall and 4" wide (measuring from crown).
Exact gauge is not important, but as with all amigurumi, crochet tightly to make sure no stuffing will be seen between stitches.

Abbreviations used: (US terms)
rnd round
sc single crochet
st stitch
sl st         slip stitch
inv dec    invisible decrease
ch chain
Number in ( ) at the end of each round: total number of stitches you should have by the end of the round.

Head (without the crown)
Using white yarn

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 7 sc in it (7).
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (14)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (21)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (28)
Rnd 5	*1 sc in next 3 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (35)
Rnd 6	*1 sc in next 4 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (42)
Rnd 7	*1 sc in next 5 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (49)
Rnd 8-14	1 sc in each st around (49)
Rnd 15	*1 sc in next 5 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (42)
Rnd 16	*1 sc in next 4 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (35)
Start stuffing
Rnd 17	*1 sc in next 3 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (28)
Rnd 18	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (21)
Rnd 19	*1 sc in next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (14)
Rnd 20	Inv dec in each st around (7)

Finish stuffing and close the hole (may I suggest PlanetJune's Ultimate Finish method?) and hide the tail inside the head. 

Body
Using light blue yarn. We're working from the bottom to the top.

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5-11	1 sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 12	*1 sc in next 10 st, then inv dec * repeat 2 times (22)
Rnd 13	*1 sc in next 4 st, then inv dec * repeat 3 times, then 1 sc in the last 4 st (19)
Rnd 14	*1 sc in next 3 st, then inv dec * repeat 3 times, then 1 sc in the next 2 st, then inv dec (15)

Stuff the body. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

White Patch on Tummy
Using white yarn: I worked this one in joined rounds (instructional video link), instead of continuous or spiral, to ensure that the shape turns out circular (so you'll begin with ch 1 and end with sl st in every round)

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6).
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (12).
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18).
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (24).

Fasten off, and leave a tail for sewing to body.

Arms (Make 2)
Using light blue yarn. We're working from the hand to the arm

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 5 sc in it (5)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st around (10)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 5 times (15)
Rnd 4-5	1 sc in each st around (15) Start stuffing
Rnd 6	*1 sc in next st, then inv dec* repeat 5 times (10)
Rnd 7	*1 sc in next 2 st, then inv dec * repeat 2 times, then 1 sc in the last 2 st (8)
Rnd 8-9	1 sc in each st around (8)
Rnd 10-11	1 sc in each st around in the front loop only (8) Fasten off.  To make it look nicer, you may want to try this invisible join method. Add more stuffing.
Rnd 12	With a new light blue yarn, work in the back loops of Rnd 10, do *1 sc in the next 2 st, then inv dec* 2 times. (6)
Rnd 13-16	1 sc in each st around in both loops (6)

Finish stuffing, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs (Make 2)
Using light blue yarn

Rnd 1	Ch 5. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in the remaining 2 st.  Rotate your piece, and do 1 sc in each loop of the other side of the chain (8)
Rnd 2-6	1 sc in each st around

Stuff. Fasten off, and leave a long tail for sewing.

"Crown"
This part was a little complicated to figure out, so if you can think of any alternative techniques to make this, I'd really like to hear it.
Hopefully the instructions make sense.
We're going to start with the middle triangle.

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 4 sc in it (4)
Rnd 2	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 2 times (6)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 2 times (8)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 4 times (12)
Rnd 5	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 6	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next * repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 7	Now we're going to work on the triangular tips on both sides.  1 sc in the next 11 st. Ch 12, and sl st into the next st (of the middle triangle) 1 sc in the next 11 st. Ch 12, and sl st into the next st to finish the round.

 

Rnd 8	1 sc in the next 11 st. Moving onto the chain, 1 sc in the bottom loop of the chain (12 sc all together), 1 sc in the next 11 st, then when you reach the chain, 1 sc in the bottom loop of the 12 chains. (46)
Rnd 9	1 sc in the next 16 st, (you should have reach the tip of farthest left or right point) 1 inv dec, 1 sc in the next 20 st (reach the other tip), 1 inv dec, 1 sc in the last 6 st.
Rnd 10	Now we're going to add the triangular flap that goes on the front of the head between the eyes. Sl st into the next 2 st. Ch 1. 1 sc in the next 7 st. Ch 1. Turn. (7 for the flap)
Rnd 11	Inv dec, 1 sc in the next 3 st, 1 inv dec (5)
Rnd 12	Inv dec, 1 sc in the next 2 st (4)
Rnd 13	Inv dec, 1 sc in the next st (3)
Rnd 14	Inv dec (1)

Fasten off. If you don't like the "rugged" edges on the two sides of your triangle, you can do a single crochet around that border to make it look nicer.

Now we're going to complete the other two "cones" on the top.  
To determine where to start, just remember that if you're right handed, you are crocheting right to left and clockwise, and the opposite for left-handed.

Rnd 1	Insert hook into the top of the first ch. Draw up a loop with the new yarn and ch 1. 1 sc into the same st, then 1 sc in the remaining 11 st. Connect to the middle triangle by doing 1 sc into one of the stitches there. (13)
Rnd 2	*1 sc in the next st, 1 inv dec* repeat 4 times, 1 sc (9)
Rnd 3	1 sc in each st around (9)
Rnd 4	Dec all around (repeat 4 times), then 1 sc (5)

Fasten off and hide the tail inside.
Do the same for the cone on other side.

Balls on the "Crown" (Make 3)
Using yellow yarn

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3-4	1 sc in each st around (12) Start stuffing
Rnd 5	*1 sc in the next st, then inv dec* repeat 6 times (6)

Finish stuffing. You can close the hole (for example with the Ultimate Finish method?) and leave the tail for sewing.

Red Baton
Using red yarn. Lightly stuff.

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 3 sc in it (3)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st around (6)
Rnd 3-6	1 sc in each st around (6) Start light stuffing
Rnd 7	*1 sc in the next st, then inv dec* repeat 2 times (4)
Rnd 8	1 sc in each st around (4)

Fasten off, and use the tail to sew to hand.

Yellow Flag
Using yellow yarn.

Rnd 1	Ch 9. Turn.
Rnd 2	Staring from 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each (8). Ch 1. Turn.
Rnd 3-5	1 sc in each st (8) Ch 1. Turn

Cut toothpick to your desired length (should be longer than what's showing to account for the bit you've poked into the hand). Paint it black (is the song stuck in your head?) with a permanent black felt or whatever you can find.  When it's dry, poke it through the side of the flag. 

Belt, Sash and Duct Tape on His Crown
For the next three parts: Because your Blue Badger's body may be bigger or smaller (depending on what hook you use / how tight you crochet), it's not really possible to give the number of chains you need for these three parts. 
I recommend wrapping the chain around yours frequently to see how many more chains you have to make.  
Another cool technique you may want to try that allows you to add length to a chain easily is doing a foundation single crochet, instead of a foundation chain. Check out the detailed photo & video tutorial from futuregirl blog.

Belt
Using black yarn

Rnd 1	Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 26).
Rnd 2	Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sash
Using grey yarn

Rnd 1	Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 39).
Rnd 2	Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Duct Tape
Using grey yarn

Rnd 1	Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 18).
Rnd 2	Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Notes for Assembly:
-White tummy patch should go on before the belt, then the sash.
-For the belt buckle, I just take sew a rectangular shape over the belt using grey yarn.
-The triangular flap between the eyes may look like it's too big, but it will get smaller once you sew it onto the head.
-Eyes are made from a small white and a small black oval shaped piece of felt.

There you go. Have fun making your own Blue Badger! Blue is not your colour? There is a pink badger!

Pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell items made from it (charity okay). Please do not reproduce the pattern anywhere, but link to this post.  Thanks!

Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner III:Yarn

There're many options for yarn out there, and the most commonly recommended yarn for amigurumi is medium worsted weight acrylic yarn (the weight of the yarn refers to the thickness of the yarn). To keep your amigurumi's stitches tight, you'll want something a little more "sturdy".

What yarn to choose? Here are some other expert opinions:
• The Silver Hook: advantages of acrylic yarn
• Freshstitches: review of wool, animal yarns, cottom, soy and bamboo
• Nerdigurumi: a case for cotton yarn
(I got a small skein of cotton / acrylic blend the other day and I love it. The stitches are so crisp. That particular Bernat yarn is discontinued though, and others I've seen are on the expensive side though, so I'm going to treasure my little skein)
• Craft Passion: how to substitute yarn

Learn how to read the stuff on a yarn label
• Craft Yarn Council
• Lion Brand Blog

What else & my two cents:

• Start with a lighter colour: The first ball of yarn I got was black, since it's my favourite colour, and I figure black will come in handy, but what I learned afterwards is that darker yarn makes it harder to see the stitches. No wonder I was having a hard time figuring out where I was supposed to insert the hook and where one stitch ends and the next stitch begins.
(Oh, and did you know that there are actually crochet hooks that will light up so you can see the stitches more clearly? Weird stuff.)

• Start with a cheaper and thicker yarn: Yarn is relatively cheap anyway when you consider how you can usually make a few amigurumi projects out of one skein. The various ones I've bought range from $3.99 Cdn to $6.99. While I sometimes find the cheaper ones (like the super saver kinds) are actually easier to crochet with, I do prefer the feel of the ones that are softer (like the Red Heart Soft Touch or the Bernat Satin). The problem with those is that in the beginning, when I wasn't used to the motions of crocheting, not to mention I was probably poking in all the wrong places and had to redo stitches frequently, I found the yarn split easily and that got me even more confused.  I would suggest trying a cheap and thicker yarn as a starter to minimize the frustration.

Be sure to check out Planet June's experiment with different yarn (pic source: Planet June)

• Be careful about mixing your yarn: It's usually not recommended to mix different brands of yarn in one project, even if they claim that they're all medium worsted weight. Planet June has an excellent test of which yarns are interchangeable with which.
Having said that, sometimes it's unavoidable when only a certain brand has that perfect colour you need. You may have to do an increase / decrease to adjust as you're crocheting along.

• Shine or no shine? Some yarn also has a shine to it (like Bernat Satin), and you may or may not like that effect, so watch for that.

• Giving your amigurumi to babies and kids?  You may want to look for yarn that is washable.

Here're the websites of some common yarn brands. The sites are also good for free patterns.
• Red Heart
• Bernat
• Lion Brand
• Patons
• Caron
• Lily Sugar'n Creme
• Michael's Loops & Threads

Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner II:Crochet Hooks

My Go-To Clover E 3.5mm Soft Touch Crochet Hook

The beauty of amigurumi is that it doesn't require a lot of tools. I remember at one point I was looking at scrapbooking and it didn't take long to realize that it's quite the expensive hobby.  However, for amigurumi and crochet, all you really need is a crochet hook (and you can get by with one size), a yarn needle, a pair of scissors and some pins.  You may already have the last two items lying around in the house, or you can look in your local dollar store for them.

Here are two articles about crochet hooks:
• Nerdigurumi: An overview of the different parts of a hook, and a comparison of various brands.
• The Itsy Bitsy Spider: Another overview, a size chart (US and metric size), plus a look at crochet hooks made from different materials and how they affect your crocheting.

Learn how to hold a crochet hook:
• Crochet Spot: Photos on two most common methods: the pencil and the knife holds.

What else and my two cents:
• Each yarn label will tell you the recommended size of hook to use. For amigurumi projects, you usually use a hook one or two sizes smaller than the suggested size because you need to crochet tightly so no stuffing shows through.
• If you are having trouble inserting your hook in the stitches, that means you're crocheting too tightly and you can try a bigger hook. If your work ends up having more holes and the stuffing is showing, you should go one size down.
• A related concept is gauge, and that's another nice thing about amigurumi: you don't have to worry about gauge. Your creation usually doesn't have to "fit" someone, unlike crocheted clothing for example.
• What's your favourite crochet hook? The hook I used the most is the Size E Clover Soft Touch. I first started crocheting with another brand without the thumb rest, but after using the Clover kind, I'm never going back. (Make it more comfy to hold your hooks with pencil grips. Check out the tutorial on Instructables.)
• Be prepared for some aches and pain in your hands, especially in the beginning. Here's a good reminder video to keep your hand relaxed while crocheting.

Source: howcast & Lion Brand studio

Next up: Yarn

Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner I: General Introduction

If you've been in awe of amazing amigurumi creations... (here are some of my favourites)

By Flickr user voxmortuum

By Croshame

By Crafty Is Cool

...and are wondering whether you should learn how to make amigurumi (and the answer is yes!), start with these general introductions so you can get an idea of what you're up against.

• All About Ami: An excellent starting point if you want to learn more about amigurumi (materials and basic stitches)
• Freshstitches: Download the free eBook, including a penguin pattern.
• Craft Passion: Another quick guide to amigurumi.
• If books are more your kind of thing, you should definitely check out The Complete Idiot's Guide to Amigurumi by June Gilbank from your local library. It's got everything in it, seriously!

Next up: Crochet Hooks and Yarn and Other Materials

Upcoming Posts: Amigurumi Basics by A Beginner

One day, I'll make you, Doraemon, I promise!

Three months ago, I dug up the amigurumi kit I've hidden in my closet for eight years, pulled out the hook and yarn, and watched my first video on how to crochet. With all the wonderful tutorials, tips and patterns others have shared online, I've discovered a wonderful and relaxing (mostly) hobby that I think will stick with me for a long time.
I thought while I still have a newbie mind and still remember all the things I struggle through, I'm going to write down all the things I've gathered online so far in my upcoming posts. I for one was, and still am, constantly stumped by instructions in patterns, which often include terms that may be second nature to seasoned crocheters but are totally baffling to beginners. (I still remember the first time I saw "FO". What is FO and how to do it?) I've had my share of digging up explanations online, so hopefully all this stuff I've gathered will save you some time.

Learn: Adding Hair to Amigurumi

I'm working on a gift for a coworker, who is sadly moving back to the States, and I am going to have to figure out how to add hair to my amigurumi. (Um...I don't think the three strands on Wimpy Kid's Greg Heffley count).
Thought I'd share the following posts and tutorials to showcase the different ways of attaching hair:

1. Owlishly

Method:  Create a wig cap (which is basically crocheting half of the head in the hair colour), then embroider hair on top of it strand by strand to style the look.
This is by far the most intense method, but just look at the results! So natural and so beautiful. It's worth all the extra work I think. Just check out some of her work if you are still unsure of the time required.
Unfortunately the yarn she used (Bernat Cool Crochet in Chocolate) is discontinued :(

2. EssHaych

Method: Latch hook style, adding hair one strand at a time directly onto head.
It looks pretty time consuming too, but perhaps a good one if you want a fuzzier look.  Another look at this method can be found on Ana Paula's Amigurumi Patterns & Random Cuteness.

3. NeedleNoodles

Method: Making a fringe and then sewing that to the head.
As the author suggested, it's easier and  faster than doing it strand by strand.  I've tried it by winding the hair around a cardboard and it seems to work just as well, if you don't have the fancy tool.
Updated Sep 28: another tutorial on Woolly Toons

4. K and J Dolls Blog

Method: A blend of #2 and #3. Using the cardboard method to create equal length hair strands, then grabbing multiple strands together and sewing the bunch directly onto the head.

Other tips I've found:
-K and J Dolls Blog: you can do the top half of the head in the hair colour if you don't want to create a wig.
-MyGurumi: use fuzzy / eyelash yarn to create hair quickly, or try doing bobbles.
-By Hook, By Hand: A Flickr step by step photo tutorial on how to create wigs
-Xanadoodle: Here's a fun explanation on how to create different hairstyles using Star Trek characters as examples.
-Regardless of the method you use, you almost always start with determining your amigurumi's hairline.
-Get some thinner yarn to make a more natural look.
-Thick curly hair can be done by making a chain, then adding a longer stitch (hdc instead of sc for example) at regular intervals, or by crocheting increases all the way through. The yarn will naturally curl.  For thinner curly hair, you may try unwinding your yarn into its individual strands.

Looking forward to trying some of these hair styles.

Free Crochet Pattern Roundup: Shark Week

I don't understand what the deal is with Shark Week, but here are some really cool shark crochet patterns. Thanks again for sharing them, you generous people!

Look at this adorable shark hat for the whole family.

Free pattern from Crochet Today

Love the mouth on this shark amigurumi. The pattern includes photo tutorial on how to do the open mouth

Free pattern from Karen's Knittin' Crap

Yikes, scuba diver, watch out for that shark

Free pattern from Yarn Juleps on the Veranda

How about something not as scary?

Free pattern from Rikka Mitsam (PDF)

Made: Star Motif

Lately I've been looking at a lot of crochet motifs.  So intriguing. I bought a cheap, cheap yarn just to practise making some of these, starting with this crochet star pattern from Jellywares. Unfortunately, the photos on the original website are broken, but the instructions are pretty clear. It's fun to see how the motif is constructed.

How about some other free star crochet patterns?

• Super Stars Amigurumi from Amy's Odyssey
• Super Mario Invincibility Star from Shh, I'm Counting
• Or how about a Ninja Star from Stitch 11

Quick Tip: Make Your Own Stitch Marker

Amigurumi is often done in continuous or spiral rounds of single crochets, so it's really important to clearly mark the first stitch of each round to know when you're done with one round and when to move on to the next.
There are many different ways to mark your stitch:

Makeshift stitch markers

Free / Almost free options:
-Safety pins
-Paper clips
-Short piece of strap yarn, preferably of a different colour so it's easier to see
See an explanation of how to place your yarn as a stitch marker (which in this case, doubles up as a row marker too!)

Source: Clover USA 

Paid options:
-Plastic stitch markers: make sure you buy the ones that can open or split, or else your marker will be crocheted in.

Source: jeanettejed on Etsy

Want something fancier than a safety pin? Make your own stitch marker:
With just a few bits like beads and wire, or recycled lobster claw clasp from old bracelets you don't wear anymore, you can create your own stitch marker.  Here are different websites with instructions:
-CrochetMe Blog
-C.W.Frosting handmade stitch marker tutorial (also includes instructions on how to make beads from a torn magazine page. Nice!)
-Dollar store crafts (make sure you follow the crochet marker instructions, not the ones for knitting)

-And even better, check out this smart idea by Etsy' jeanettejed. Add a numbered bead to get an all-in-one stitch and row counter.

I just use yarn, 'cause it's light and not in the way, but it's fun to make your own stuff sometimes.

Pattern: Crochet Neapolitan Popsicle

"Someone took a bite out of me"

I have a soft spot for food amigurumi, so I thought for my next pattern, I'll try to make something food-related. I chose neapolitan ice cream popsicle mainly because I like the colour combination, even though the only "colour" I would actually eat is vanilla. Have fun making your own popsicle.

Yarn, Hook and Other Materials:
(feel free to substitute with your favourite worsted weight yarn and hook size)
E hook / 3.5mm hook
Pink yarn: Bernat Satin Cameo
Cream yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Off White
Brown yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Chocolate
Small amount of light brown yarn: Bernat Satin Sable
Yarn needle to weave in ends and embroider the sprinkles on
A pair of safety eyes or beads
Cream and black embroidery thread
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
A small piece of cardboard (optional)

Dimensions / Gauge:
Popsicle is approximately 5.5" tall and 2" wide.
Exact gauge is not important, but as with all amigurumi, crochet tightly to make sure no stuffing will be seen between stitches.

Abbreviations used:
rnd round
sc single crochet
st stitch
sl st    slip stitch
inv dec   invisible decrease
ch chain
Number in ( ) at the end of each round: total number of stitches you should have by the end of the round.

Note:
I worked in continuous spirals instead of joined rounds, because personally I don't like that diagonal seam line, but if you prefer to do it that way to make a better colour change, it's totally fine too.

Main body of the popsicle:
Using pink yarn: we're starting from the bottom of the popsicle and working our way up

Rnd 1	Ch 12. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, and sc in the next 9 ch. In the last ch, do 3 sc. (This will help the oval to "turn" the corner so to speak) Rotate your work so the other side of the chain is facing up. Sc in each loop of ch (11 sc), until you reach the last loop. Do 3 sc in that loop. You should have a total of 26 sc at the end of the round (26)
Rnd 2	1 sc along the straight side (11 sc), then 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, and 2 sc in the next st. That should round up the corner, and now continue doing 1 sc on the straight side again (9 sc). Then 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next, and 2 sc in the last st (30 total for the round)
Rnd 3	1 sc all around (30)
Rnd 4	1 sc all around in the back loops only (30)
Rnd 5-11	1 sc all around in both loops again (30)
Rnd 12	Change to off-white yarn. 1 sc all around. (30) If you're using safety eyes, add them in now.
Rnd 13-18	1 sc all around (30)
Rnd 19	Change to brown yarn. 1 sc all around. (30)
Rnd 20-23	1 sc all around. (30)

Fasten off.  You should have something like this. Stuff the piece.

Now we're ready for the fun part and create the "bite" in our popsicle.
Bascially, the uneven edge of the bite is created by not crocheting all around in the 30 stitches, but turning and leaving stitches undone in every round. The number of stitches you'll have to do for each row will get smaller and smaller as you go up to the top of the popsicle.
In the crochet world I think they call that a decrease for each row to create a staircase effect.
On the opposite side of the bite (in mine, the left side of the popsicle), we will gradually work in invisible decreases to shape the popsicle.
As you're crocheting, you can adjust accordingly to create the size and the look of the bite you want. I've put down a rough estimate of what I did, but it's more fun to shape it as you go along.

Rnd 1	Using brown yarn.If you flatten your popsicle, we're going to start from the 3rd stitch from the right edge. Insert your hook into that stitch, and pull up a loop with the new brown yarn. Ch 1. 1 sc in the next st, sc into the next 23 stitch, and sl st into the next st.
Rnd 2	Ch 1. Turn (so you're now inserting your hook from the inside of the popsicle to outside, going left to right again (if you're right-handed). Sc in the next st, sc into the next 22 sc, sl st into next st.
Rnd 3	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the next st, sc into the next 8 st, inv dec, inv dec, sc in next 8 st, sl st into the next st.
Rnd 4	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in all st around.
Rnd 5	Ch 3. Turn. Sl st into the base st of the chain (This will create a "bump" that stick out in your bite). Sc in the next 7 st, inv dec, inv dec, sc in the next 7 st, sl st into the last st.
Rnd 6	Ch 3. Turn. Sl st into the base st of the chain. Sc in all st around, sl st into the last st.
Rnd 7	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the next 5 st, inv dec, inv dec, sc in the 4 st, sl st into the last st.
Rnd 8	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in all st around.
Rnd 9	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in next 4 st, inv dec, then sc in the remaining st.
Rnd 10	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in all st around.

Fasten off. Leaving a long tail for sewing.
Whip stitch the top of the front and back chocolate pieces together using the tail.
If you prefer, you can embroider the sprinkles in now or wait till later.

Inside of Ice Cream

Rnd 1	Starting with pink yarn Ch 4. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, then sc in the next ch, then 3 sc in the last ch. Rotate your work so the other side of the chain is facing up. 1 sc in the first 2 loops, and 2 sc in the last one. (9)
Rnd 2	Change to off-white yarn *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in next* repeat till end of round (13)
Rnd 3-5	1 sc in each st around Whether you need another round or not depends on how big you've created your bite, so put this inside your popsicle to see if it fits well or not.

Fasten off. Add more stuffing to the main body of the popsicle, then sew this piece to it. I just pinned the bit to the main piece, then used the left-over brown yarn tail to secure it.

Popsicle Stick
Using light brown yarn

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 stitches in it.
Rnd 2	*1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 3 times (9)
Rnd 3-7	1 sc in each st around

Fasten off, and leave a long tail for sewing. I added cardboard to the inside to make it stiffer before I sewed to body.

And now for some quick embroidery work

Randomly add in your sprinkles to the chocolate part of your popsicle.  I did this back and forth on the front and the back of the piece.
Then add the mouth in using the black embroidery thread. And of course, you can have your popsicle smiling instead.

Pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell items made from it (charity okay). Please do not reproduce the pattern anywhere, but link to this post ( http://ow.ly/cPHJD ).  Thanks!