Amigurumi Pattern: Blue Badger from Phoenix Wright Ace Attorney

"Wriggling piece of plywood"

After I've crocheted some stuff for myself, I wanted to make something for my husband as a surprise. I had to secretly work on it for weeks. I told him I was crocheting something for him, but he couldn't quite figure out what. Success.
And here he is: Blue Badger!
My husband loves his video games, and he'll often attach himself to these weird but cute characters in them. Blue Badger is one of his favourites. Blue Badger is the mascot of the police department from the DS game Phoenix Wright: Ace Attorney, and all his fans know the tune to his little dance.

Not sure how many people are going to make their very own Blue Badger, but I thought I'd put the pattern down anyway.  Hope you like it!  Sorry I don't have any more pictures of the individual pieces. I always forget to take pics during crocheting.

Yarn, Hook and Other Materials:
(feel free to substitute with your favourite worsted weight yarn and hook size)
E hook / 3.5mm hook
Light blue yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Light Blue
White yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch White
Yellow yarn: Red Heart Kids Yellow
Small amount of red yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Really Red
Small amount of grey yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Pewter
Small amount of black yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Black
Yarn needle to weave in ends and sew mouth
Grey and black embroidery thread
Small piece of white and black felt
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
A toothpick and black felt pen

Dimensions / Gauge:
Blue Badger is approximately 7" tall and 4" wide (measuring from crown).
Exact gauge is not important, but as with all amigurumi, crochet tightly to make sure no stuffing will be seen between stitches.

Abbreviations used: (US terms)
rnd round
sc single crochet
st stitch
sl st         slip stitch
inv dec    invisible decrease
ch chain
Number in ( ) at the end of each round: total number of stitches you should have by the end of the round.

Head (without the crown)
Using white yarn

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 7 sc in it (7).
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (14)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (21)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (28)
Rnd 5	*1 sc in next 3 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (35)
Rnd 6	*1 sc in next 4 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (42)
Rnd 7	*1 sc in next 5 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (49)
Rnd 8-14	1 sc in each st around (49)
Rnd 15	*1 sc in next 5 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (42)
Rnd 16	*1 sc in next 4 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (35)
Start stuffing
Rnd 17	*1 sc in next 3 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (28)
Rnd 18	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (21)
Rnd 19	*1 sc in next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (14)
Rnd 20	Inv dec in each st around (7)

Finish stuffing and close the hole (may I suggest PlanetJune's Ultimate Finish method?) and hide the tail inside the head. 

Body
Using light blue yarn. We're working from the bottom to the top.

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5-11	1 sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 12	*1 sc in next 10 st, then inv dec * repeat 2 times (22)
Rnd 13	*1 sc in next 4 st, then inv dec * repeat 3 times, then 1 sc in the last 4 st (19)
Rnd 14	*1 sc in next 3 st, then inv dec * repeat 3 times, then 1 sc in the next 2 st, then inv dec (15)

Stuff the body. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

White Patch on Tummy
Using white yarn: I worked this one in joined rounds (instructional video link), instead of continuous or spiral, to ensure that the shape turns out circular (so you'll begin with ch 1 and end with sl st in every round)

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6).
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (12).
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18).
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (24).

Fasten off, and leave a tail for sewing to body.

Arms (Make 2)
Using light blue yarn. We're working from the hand to the arm

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 5 sc in it (5)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st around (10)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 5 times (15)
Rnd 4-5	1 sc in each st around (15) Start stuffing
Rnd 6	*1 sc in next st, then inv dec* repeat 5 times (10)
Rnd 7	*1 sc in next 2 st, then inv dec * repeat 2 times, then 1 sc in the last 2 st (8)
Rnd 8-9	1 sc in each st around (8)
Rnd 10-11	1 sc in each st around in the front loop only (8) Fasten off.  To make it look nicer, you may want to try this invisible join method. Add more stuffing.
Rnd 12	With a new light blue yarn, work in the back loops of Rnd 10, do *1 sc in the next 2 st, then inv dec* 2 times. (6)
Rnd 13-16	1 sc in each st around in both loops (6)

Finish stuffing, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs (Make 2)
Using light blue yarn

Rnd 1	Ch 5. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in the remaining 2 st.  Rotate your piece, and do 1 sc in each loop of the other side of the chain (8)
Rnd 2-6	1 sc in each st around

Stuff. Fasten off, and leave a long tail for sewing.

"Crown"
This part was a little complicated to figure out, so if you can think of any alternative techniques to make this, I'd really like to hear it.
Hopefully the instructions make sense.
We're going to start with the middle triangle.

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 4 sc in it (4)
Rnd 2	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 2 times (6)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 2 times (8)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 4 times (12)
Rnd 5	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 6	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next * repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 7	Now we're going to work on the triangular tips on both sides.  1 sc in the next 11 st. Ch 12, and sl st into the next st (of the middle triangle) 1 sc in the next 11 st. Ch 12, and sl st into the next st to finish the round.

 

Rnd 8	1 sc in the next 11 st. Moving onto the chain, 1 sc in the bottom loop of the chain (12 sc all together), 1 sc in the next 11 st, then when you reach the chain, 1 sc in the bottom loop of the 12 chains. (46)
Rnd 9	1 sc in the next 16 st, (you should have reach the tip of farthest left or right point) 1 inv dec, 1 sc in the next 20 st (reach the other tip), 1 inv dec, 1 sc in the last 6 st.
Rnd 10	Now we're going to add the triangular flap that goes on the front of the head between the eyes. Sl st into the next 2 st. Ch 1. 1 sc in the next 7 st. Ch 1. Turn. (7 for the flap)
Rnd 11	Inv dec, 1 sc in the next 3 st, 1 inv dec (5)
Rnd 12	Inv dec, 1 sc in the next 2 st (4)
Rnd 13	Inv dec, 1 sc in the next st (3)
Rnd 14	Inv dec (1)

Fasten off. If you don't like the "rugged" edges on the two sides of your triangle, you can do a single crochet around that border to make it look nicer.

Now we're going to complete the other two "cones" on the top.  
To determine where to start, just remember that if you're right handed, you are crocheting right to left and clockwise, and the opposite for left-handed.

Rnd 1	Insert hook into the top of the first ch. Draw up a loop with the new yarn and ch 1. 1 sc into the same st, then 1 sc in the remaining 11 st. Connect to the middle triangle by doing 1 sc into one of the stitches there. (13)
Rnd 2	*1 sc in the next st, 1 inv dec* repeat 4 times, 1 sc (9)
Rnd 3	1 sc in each st around (9)
Rnd 4	Dec all around (repeat 4 times), then 1 sc (5)

Fasten off and hide the tail inside.
Do the same for the cone on other side.

Balls on the "Crown" (Make 3)
Using yellow yarn

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3-4	1 sc in each st around (12) Start stuffing
Rnd 5	*1 sc in the next st, then inv dec* repeat 6 times (6)

Finish stuffing. You can close the hole (for example with the Ultimate Finish method?) and leave the tail for sewing.

Red Baton
Using red yarn. Lightly stuff.

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 3 sc in it (3)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st around (6)
Rnd 3-6	1 sc in each st around (6) Start light stuffing
Rnd 7	*1 sc in the next st, then inv dec* repeat 2 times (4)
Rnd 8	1 sc in each st around (4)

Fasten off, and use the tail to sew to hand.

Yellow Flag
Using yellow yarn.

Rnd 1	Ch 9. Turn.
Rnd 2	Staring from 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each (8). Ch 1. Turn.
Rnd 3-5	1 sc in each st (8) Ch 1. Turn

Cut toothpick to your desired length (should be longer than what's showing to account for the bit you've poked into the hand). Paint it black (is the song stuck in your head?) with a permanent black felt or whatever you can find.  When it's dry, poke it through the side of the flag. 

Belt, Sash and Duct Tape on His Crown
For the next three parts: Because your Blue Badger's body may be bigger or smaller (depending on what hook you use / how tight you crochet), it's not really possible to give the number of chains you need for these three parts. 
I recommend wrapping the chain around yours frequently to see how many more chains you have to make.  
Another cool technique you may want to try that allows you to add length to a chain easily is doing a foundation single crochet, instead of a foundation chain. Check out the detailed photo & video tutorial from futuregirl blog.

Belt
Using black yarn

Rnd 1	Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 26).
Rnd 2	Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sash
Using grey yarn

Rnd 1	Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 39).
Rnd 2	Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Duct Tape
Using grey yarn

Rnd 1	Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 18).
Rnd 2	Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Notes for Assembly:
-White tummy patch should go on before the belt, then the sash.
-For the belt buckle, I just take sew a rectangular shape over the belt using grey yarn.
-The triangular flap between the eyes may look like it's too big, but it will get smaller once you sew it onto the head.
-Eyes are made from a small white and a small black oval shaped piece of felt.

There you go. Have fun making your own Blue Badger! Blue is not your colour? There is a pink badger!

Pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell items made from it (charity okay). Please do not reproduce the pattern anywhere, but link to this post.  Thanks!

Pattern: Crochet Neapolitan Popsicle

"Someone took a bite out of me"

I have a soft spot for food amigurumi, so I thought for my next pattern, I'll try to make something food-related. I chose neapolitan ice cream popsicle mainly because I like the colour combination, even though the only "colour" I would actually eat is vanilla. Have fun making your own popsicle.

Yarn, Hook and Other Materials:
(feel free to substitute with your favourite worsted weight yarn and hook size)
E hook / 3.5mm hook
Pink yarn: Bernat Satin Cameo
Cream yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Off White
Brown yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Chocolate
Small amount of light brown yarn: Bernat Satin Sable
Yarn needle to weave in ends and embroider the sprinkles on
A pair of safety eyes or beads
Cream and black embroidery thread
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
A small piece of cardboard (optional)

Dimensions / Gauge:
Popsicle is approximately 5.5" tall and 2" wide.
Exact gauge is not important, but as with all amigurumi, crochet tightly to make sure no stuffing will be seen between stitches.

Abbreviations used:
rnd round
sc single crochet
st stitch
sl st    slip stitch
inv dec   invisible decrease
ch chain
Number in ( ) at the end of each round: total number of stitches you should have by the end of the round.

Note:
I worked in continuous spirals instead of joined rounds, because personally I don't like that diagonal seam line, but if you prefer to do it that way to make a better colour change, it's totally fine too.

Main body of the popsicle:
Using pink yarn: we're starting from the bottom of the popsicle and working our way up

Rnd 1	Ch 12. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, and sc in the next 9 ch. In the last ch, do 3 sc. (This will help the oval to "turn" the corner so to speak) Rotate your work so the other side of the chain is facing up. Sc in each loop of ch (11 sc), until you reach the last loop. Do 3 sc in that loop. You should have a total of 26 sc at the end of the round (26)
Rnd 2	1 sc along the straight side (11 sc), then 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, and 2 sc in the next st. That should round up the corner, and now continue doing 1 sc on the straight side again (9 sc). Then 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next, and 2 sc in the last st (30 total for the round)
Rnd 3	1 sc all around (30)
Rnd 4	1 sc all around in the back loops only (30)
Rnd 5-11	1 sc all around in both loops again (30)
Rnd 12	Change to off-white yarn. 1 sc all around. (30) If you're using safety eyes, add them in now.
Rnd 13-18	1 sc all around (30)
Rnd 19	Change to brown yarn. 1 sc all around. (30)
Rnd 20-23	1 sc all around. (30)

Fasten off.  You should have something like this. Stuff the piece.

Now we're ready for the fun part and create the "bite" in our popsicle.
Bascially, the uneven edge of the bite is created by not crocheting all around in the 30 stitches, but turning and leaving stitches undone in every round. The number of stitches you'll have to do for each row will get smaller and smaller as you go up to the top of the popsicle.
In the crochet world I think they call that a decrease for each row to create a staircase effect.
On the opposite side of the bite (in mine, the left side of the popsicle), we will gradually work in invisible decreases to shape the popsicle.
As you're crocheting, you can adjust accordingly to create the size and the look of the bite you want. I've put down a rough estimate of what I did, but it's more fun to shape it as you go along.

Rnd 1	Using brown yarn.If you flatten your popsicle, we're going to start from the 3rd stitch from the right edge. Insert your hook into that stitch, and pull up a loop with the new brown yarn. Ch 1. 1 sc in the next st, sc into the next 23 stitch, and sl st into the next st.
Rnd 2	Ch 1. Turn (so you're now inserting your hook from the inside of the popsicle to outside, going left to right again (if you're right-handed). Sc in the next st, sc into the next 22 sc, sl st into next st.
Rnd 3	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the next st, sc into the next 8 st, inv dec, inv dec, sc in next 8 st, sl st into the next st.
Rnd 4	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in all st around.
Rnd 5	Ch 3. Turn. Sl st into the base st of the chain (This will create a "bump" that stick out in your bite). Sc in the next 7 st, inv dec, inv dec, sc in the next 7 st, sl st into the last st.
Rnd 6	Ch 3. Turn. Sl st into the base st of the chain. Sc in all st around, sl st into the last st.
Rnd 7	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the next 5 st, inv dec, inv dec, sc in the 4 st, sl st into the last st.
Rnd 8	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in all st around.
Rnd 9	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in next 4 st, inv dec, then sc in the remaining st.
Rnd 10	Ch 1. Turn. Sc in all st around.

Fasten off. Leaving a long tail for sewing.
Whip stitch the top of the front and back chocolate pieces together using the tail.
If you prefer, you can embroider the sprinkles in now or wait till later.

Inside of Ice Cream

Rnd 1	Starting with pink yarn Ch 4. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, then sc in the next ch, then 3 sc in the last ch. Rotate your work so the other side of the chain is facing up. 1 sc in the first 2 loops, and 2 sc in the last one. (9)
Rnd 2	Change to off-white yarn *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in next* repeat till end of round (13)
Rnd 3-5	1 sc in each st around Whether you need another round or not depends on how big you've created your bite, so put this inside your popsicle to see if it fits well or not.

Fasten off. Add more stuffing to the main body of the popsicle, then sew this piece to it. I just pinned the bit to the main piece, then used the left-over brown yarn tail to secure it.

Popsicle Stick
Using light brown yarn

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 stitches in it.
Rnd 2	*1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 3 times (9)
Rnd 3-7	1 sc in each st around

Fasten off, and leave a long tail for sewing. I added cardboard to the inside to make it stiffer before I sewed to body.

And now for some quick embroidery work

Randomly add in your sprinkles to the chocolate part of your popsicle.  I did this back and forth on the front and the back of the piece.
Then add the mouth in using the black embroidery thread. And of course, you can have your popsicle smiling instead.

Pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell items made from it (charity okay). Please do not reproduce the pattern anywhere, but link to this post ( http://ow.ly/cPHJD ).  Thanks!

Pattern: Cubchoo (Pokemon)

I started playing the games and rediscovered Pokemon a couple months ago, and now in my thirties, I'm pretty much all things Pokemon. Having seen amazing Pokemon amigurumi by Kat's Creations, WolfDreamer, Nanette Crochet, and Tiffany Can Crochet, I know I want to crochet some, so here's my first Pokemon amigurumi:  Cubchoo.

Cubchoo クマシュン is one of my favourite Unova Pokemon. Yes, that is snot dripping from his nose. Learn more about this cute guy here.  All his body parts seem pretty standard, so I thought I'd give this a try. Still took lots of trial and error to get him to look right.  Hope you like it.  

Let me know if you see anything weird or funky in the pattern. Thanks!

Yarn, Hook and Other Materials:

(feel free to substitute worsted weight yarn and hook size to your liking):

E hook / 3.5mm hook

Red Heart Super Saver Light Blue

Red Heart Soft Touch White

A small amount of Red Heart Soft Touch Pewter (dark grey colour)

Yarn needle to weave in ends and embroider the lines on Cubchoo's paws

Two small pieces of black felt for the eyes

White and Dark Grey embroidery threads

Polyester fiberfill stuffing

Dimensions / Gauge:

Cubchoo is approximately 6" tall and 4.5" wide at the ears. 

Exact gauge is not important, but as with all amigurumi, crochet tightly to make sure no stuffing will be seen between stitches. 

Abbreviations used:

rnd	round
sc	single crochet
st	stitch
sl st	slip stitch
inv dec	invisible decrease
hdc	half double crochet
dc	double crochet
tc	triple/treble crochet
ch	chain

Number in ( ) at the end of each round: total number of stitches you should have by the end of the round.

Note:

Rounds are work in continuous spirals.

Stuffing can be done at your round of choice. I've just added a reminder in the pattern.

Head:
Using light blue yarn. Head is worked from bottom to top.

Rnd 1       Make a magic ring with 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2       2 sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3       *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 4       *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 5       *1 sc in the next 3 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (30)

Rnd 6       *1 sc in the next 4 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (36)

Rnd 7       1 sc in each st around (36)

Rnd 8       *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 12 times (48)

Rnd 9-12   1 sc in each st around (48)

Rnd 13     *1sc in the next 4 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 8 times (40)

Rnd 14     1 sc in each st around (40)

Rnd 15     1 sc in each st around (40)

Rnd 16     *1sc in the next 3 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 8 times (32)

Rnd 17     1 sc in each st around (32)

You may want to think about stuffing the head at this point.

Rnd 18     *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 8 times (24)

Rnd 19     1 sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 20     1 sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 21     *1 sc in the next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 8 times (16)

Rnd 22     1 sc in each st around (16)

Rnd 23     *1 sc in the next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 8 times (8)

Rnd 24     *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 2 times (4)

Rnd 25     Depending on how tight you've crocheted, you may need another row of dec in each. 

Finish stuffing. Fasten off and hide the tail inside the head. 

Body:
Using white yarn. Head is worked from bottom to top.

Rnd 1       Make a magic ring with 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2       2 sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3       *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 4       *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 5       *1 sc in the next 3 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (30)

Rnd 6       *1 sc in the next 4 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (36)

Rnd 7       1 sc in each st around (36)

Rnd 8       1 sc in each st around (36)

Rnd 9       *1 sc in the next 5 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (42)

Rnd 10-14    1 sc in each st around (42)

Rnd 15     *1 sc in the next 5 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (36)

Rnd 16-18    1 sc in each st around (36)

You may want to think about stuffing the body at this point.

Rnd 19     *1 sc in the next 4 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (30)

Rnd 20     *1 sc in the next 3 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 21     1 sc in each st around (24)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body. 

Legs (make 2): If I were to make this again, I may incorporate the round grey paw pad at the bottom of his feet right into the leg creation, rather than doing the legs in white first, then sew the grey piece on. 

Using white yarn. Legs are worked from the feet to the top.

Rnd 1      Make a magic ring with 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2      2 sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3      *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 4      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 5-7   1 sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 8      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (18) 

You may want to start stuffing.

Rnd 9      *1 sc in the next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (12)

Rnd 10-15   1 sc in each st around (12)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing.

Paw pads at the bottom of the legs (make 2): Using pewter / charcoal grey yarn

Rnd 1      Make a magic ring with 6 sc (6)
Rnd 2      2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3      *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (18)
Fasten off. Sew to bottom of legs.


Arms/Hands (make 2): Using white yarn.

Rnd 1      Make a magic ring with 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2      1 sc in each st around (6)

Rnd 3      2 sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 4      1 sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 5      *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (18) 

Rnd 6-8   1 sc in each st around (18) 

You may want to start stuffing.

Rnd 9      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (12)

Rnd 10    *1 sc in the next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (6)

Rnd 11    1 sc in each st around (6)

Finish stuffing.  Fasten off and hide tail inside the arms. 

Using a dark grey embroidery thread, sew the two lines on the top of his hands.

Tail: Using white yarn.

Rnd 1      Make a magic ring with 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2      2 sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3      *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 4      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 5-8   1 sc in each st around (24)  

You may want to start stuffing.

Rnd 9      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 10    *1 sc in the next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (12)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.  Finish stuffing.

Ears (make 2): Using light blue yarn. Ears are worked from pointy end to the bottom

Rnd 1      Make a magic ring with 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2      2 sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3      *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 4      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 5      1 sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 6      1 sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 7      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 8      *1 sc in the next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (12)

Rnd 9      1 sc in each st around (12)

Stuff the ears lightly and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle: Using light blue yarn. (Technically, the colour of his snout is slightly darker than the rest of his head, so you may want to do that if you have the right colour)

Rnd 1     Make a magic ring with 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2     *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 3     *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 3 times (12)

Rnd 4     *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 5     1 sc in each st around (18)

Rnd 6     *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 7     *1 sc in the next 3 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (30)

Rnd 8     1 sc in the next 11 st
              then 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 tc, 2 dc and 1 hdc
              (this part will be the pointy top of the snout between the eyes)
              and 1 sc in the last 12 st (30)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ruffle thingie around his neck: Using light blue yarn

Rnd 1     Ch 25

Rnd 2     Starting with the 2nd ch from hook. *5 dc in next st, skip one st, then sl st into the next stitch* repeat till the end and sl st to the first stitch to form a ring

Whipstitch to top of body.

Normally, you want all your amigurumi parts the right side out, but I like the look of the back side better for the ruffle, so this part has the "wrong" side facing out. 

Nose: Using pewter / charcoal grey yarn

Rnd 1      Make a magic ring with 5 stitches (5)

Rnd 2      1 sc in each st around (5)

Rnd 3      *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 2 times, then 1 sc in the last st (7)

Rnd 4      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 3 times, then 1 sc in the last st (10)

Fasten off and leave long tail for sewing. Flatten the piece to a triangular shape.

And now for my favourite part...

Snot:  Start with white.

Rnd 1      Make a magic ring with 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2      2 sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3      *1 sc in the next st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 4      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next st* repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 5-6  1 sc in each st around (24)

Change to light blue.

Rnd 7      1 sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 8      *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 9      1 sc in each st around (18)

Lightly stuff the bottom part. Don't want to make it too heavy.

Rnd 10    *1 sc in the next 3 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 3 times, then 3 sc in the next 3 st (15)

Rnd 11    1 sc in each st around (15)

Rnd 12    *1 sc in the next 3 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 3 times (12)

Rnd 13    1 sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 14    *1 sc in the next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 15-16   1 sc in each st around (9)

Rnd 17    *1 sc in the next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 3 times (6)

Rnd 18-19   1 sc in each st around (6)

Fasten off and leave tail for sewing. I didn't stuff the rest of the snot.

Assembly:

There is not really a particular order of sewing, except:

-ruffle should go on first before you position the arms on the body

-snot should go on the muzzle first before you put the nose on top of it

-add the eyes last so you can space them properly on the sides of the muzzle. 

Eyes are made by cutting two oval-shaped pieces out of black felt, and by doing two french knots on them.

And there you go! Have fun crocheting your own Cubchoo!  Post a link to yours in the comment section. I'd love to see it.

Cubchoo and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

Pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell items made from it (charity okay). Please do not reproduce the pattern anywhere, but link to this post ( http://ow.ly/cDsfD ).  Thanks!

Crocodile Stitch III: Crochet Owl

Hoo-Hoo

I have finished my crocodile stitch project and made a crochet owl! Learned a fun stitch and used yarn from my favourite colour combinations. I left the top open so I can use this as a holder for stationary, crochet hooks and what not. As I mentioned in my previous post, the crocodile stitches yield a heavy thick layer, so the crochet owl is standing tall and sturdy.
I'm going to attempt to write out how I did this (first pattern...eek!). I used this Bernat pattern (site requires registration) and its companion youtube video tutorial as a reference to figure out my crocodile stitch body, and I came up with the other parts. Please post a comment if you notice anything funky or if you've suggestions for me to improve my instructions. 

Yarn, Hook and Other Materials:
(substitute with your favourite worsted weight yarn and hook size):
C hook / 2.75mm hook for the owl body
E hook / 3.5mm hook for the rest
Loops & Threads Impeccable Aqua

Red Heart Soft Touch Pewter

Small amount of Red Heart Soft Touch White

Small amount of Red Heart Kids Yellow

Yarn needle to weave in ends and sew parts together

Black embroidery thread to embroider eyes of owl

Pins to help you position your parts while you sew them together

Dimensions / Gauge:

My owl is approximately 5" tall and 3" wide.
Gauge is not applicable in this project.

Abbreviations used:

rnd	round
ch	chain
sc	single crochet
dc	double crochet
st	stitch
sl st	slip stitch
FO	fasten off

Number in ( ) at the end of each round: total number of stitches you should have by the end of the round.

Note:

The crocodile stitch takes up quite a bit of yarn, since each row is made of the base double crochet stitch, plus the crocodile stitch on top of it, so make sure you've enough yarn in the body colour. 

Pattern:

Body:

Because I used this Bernat pattern (free pattern available after you register) and its companion youtube video tutorial as my reference, I don't feel right writing out the steps here. Sorry for the inconvenience!

Please do refer to the above to get your owl body done. You can't get better step-by-step instruction than what's provided in the video.

Just a few notes:

-The starting chain should be in multiples of 6 plus that chain-3, which will act as a 1 dc stitch.  I did 36 and had 6 crocodile stitches.

-Turn your work 90° so it's vertical and it'll be slightly easier to insert your hook.

-To find the middle point, aka the 3rd dc, of the skipped 5 dc group, I find it helpful to look behind my project for the five posts I've skipped in the previous row.

-When you have completed all the crocodile stitch rows, work rows of sc (the grey part) until the desired height.

Wings (make 2):

I alternate between sc and dc just to make the pattern on the wing more interesting. You can do all sc all if you prefer.

Rnd 1	Ch 3. 1 sc in 2nd chain from hook. 1 sc in the next chain. (3) Ch 1. Turn.
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (4) Ch 1. Turn.
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat 2 times (6) Ch 1. Turn.
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat 2 times (8) Ch 3. Turn.
Rnd 5	*1 dc in next 3 st, then 2 dc in next st (inc)* repeat 2 times (10) Ch 1. Turn.
Rnd 6	1 sc in each stitch (10) Ch 3. Turn.
Rnd 7	1 dc in each stitch (10) Ch 1. Turn.
Rnd 8	1 sc in each stitch (10) Ch 3. Turn.
Rnd 9	1 dc in each stitch (10) Ch 1. Turn.
Rnd 10	1 sc in each stitch (10) Ch 3. Turn.
Rnd 11	1 dc in each stitch (10) When you reach the end, FO, or sc around the edge of the wing. Leave tail for sewing. (I personally like it better with the edging but it's optional.)

Eyes (make 2):

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 stitches in it. (6)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st. (12)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5	*1 sc in next 3 st, then 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat 6 times (30)

Fasten off and leave tail to sew to body.
Embroider Owl's sleepy eyes, or make an awake version and use a small piece of felt circle as eyes.


Nose:

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 stitches in it. (6)
Rnd 2	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat 3 times (9)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat 3 times  (12)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next 3 st, then 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat 3 times (15)
Rnd 5	*1 sc in next 4 st, then 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat 3 times (18)

Fasten off and leave tail to sew to body.


Assembly
Pretty simple. Sew each part to the body (nose and wings before eyes) at the appropriate spot. 
For the tassel on the two sides: 

-Use any of your remaining tail ends, or cut a few short pieces of yarn from the colours you use for your owl.  Make them slightly longer than you want the finished tassel to be so you can tie your knot easily.
-Use your hook to draw each yarn through one of the stitches near the top. Pull half of the yarn over.
-Tie a double knot with all the pieces of yarn.
-Cut tassel to desired length.

As usual, this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell items made from it (charity okay). Please do not repost pattern anywhere, but link to this post ( http://ow.ly/cyLp8 ). Thanks! 
Have fun making your own crochet owl!