The amazing All About Ami has put together an amigurumi blog directory. Head over to her post to browse through all the different crocheters' work from around the world.
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Showing posts with label amigurumi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label amigurumi. Show all posts
Friday, August 16, 2013
Amigurumi Blog Directory
The amazing All About Ami has put together an amigurumi blog directory. Head over to her post to browse through all the different crocheters' work from around the world.
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
Free Crochet Pattern Roundup: Pirates
Arrrr, today is International Talk like a Pirate day. Set sail with these free crochet patterns.
You need a crew. Here's pirate bear.
And here's pirate duck.
If you can get Tony Tony Chopper on board, you're good to go.
Your kids can join the crew
And of course there is a costume for you too, kid at heart.
Remember though when you're creating your look that people have a new idea of what pirates look like since this guy came along.
Not ready to go full on pirate? Well, celebrate this fun day with a can cozy.
You need a crew. Here's pirate bear.
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| Free pattern from Crochet Me |
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| Free pattern from jennyandteddy |
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| Free pattern from Sasya |
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| Free pattern from Red Heart |
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| Free pattern from Red Heart |
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| Free pattern from AH! Creations |
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| Free pattern from Lion Brand Yarn |
Monday, August 27, 2012
Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner V:
5 More Basic Stitches & Techniques
Here're five more basic amigurumi techniques (click here for Part I):
7. Magic Circle or Ring
Now that you've mastered the single crochet, let's go back and learn the magic ring, the preferred way of starting an amigurumi round.
Also called: adjustable ring, magic loop
Good to know: You can substitute the initial "Ch 2. __ sc in 2nd chain from hook" instruction with the magic ring, doing the designated number of single crochets in the ring.
Tutorial: Check out my previous post.
8. Increase
Abbreviation: inc
How to: If you know how to do a single crochet, you know how to increase. Instead of working one single crochet into a stitch, you do more than one, which will increase the overall width (in rows) or circumference (in rounds).
Sometimes the pattern will just say "2 stitches in the next stitch", instead of "increase", and that's exactly what this is.
Purpose: Increasing (and decreasing) helps shape your amigurumi.
Good to know:
• Usually you will space out your increases evenly across the round. In patterns, for example, you'll see:
• Increases are easy to do, but keeping track of how many stitches you've done and when you need to increase can be tricky in the beginning. Try a stitch counter.
9. Right Side and Wrong Side
• The "right side" (abbreviation: RS) = the front of your piece
• The "wrong" side= the back.
How to tell: The stitches look different (check out the video below)
Another quick way to tell in amigurumi that is worked in rounds is that the side with the yarn tail from your magic circle sticking out is the "wrong" side.
Good to know: Whether you choose to show the right or the wrong side of your piece to the world is really up to you, and unlike the names, there really is no right or wrong. To ensure your amigurumi's surface looks uniform, you just have to make sure that all your pieces have the same side showing.
More information and comparison:
• All About Ami
• Video from Nerdigurumi comparing the differences. Interestingly, the sizes and shapes of the balls change depending on which side you've showing:
10. Front Loops and Back Loops
You will come across instructions that tell you to work in a specific part of a stitch, so what are they talking about exactly?
Let Stitch Diva Studio explain with a photo tutorial.
Good to know: Stitches that are worked in, for example, just the front loop, will look different from stitches that are worked in, say, the back loops. Crochet makes use of the different looks to add texture to your piece.
Take a look at this Crochet Spot's comparison.
11. Decrease
Abbreviation: dec, sc2tog (single crochet 2 together)
We saw how an increase makes the "circle" get bigger earlier. To make it go smaller, you'll need a decrease. Here, you're trying to join two stitches in the previous round together by making one stitch only.
How to:
1. Skip a stitch: generally not recommended because of the hole you'll leave in your piece.
2. Insert the hook into one stitch, yarn over, and draw up a loop. You don't complete that stitch, but insert the hook immediately into the next stitch, yarn over, and draw up another loop. Now you've three loops on your hook. You yarn over, and pull through all loops at once.
However...
I've never done anything but Planet June's invisible decrease to make sure the amigurumi looks as good as it can without too many bumps and holes caused by the decrease.
You can also check out All About Ami's photo tutorial on how to do an invisible decrease.
p.s. An invisible decrease requires you to work in the front loops, hence all that talk earlier about parts of a stitch.
Putting it all together: Let's crochet something already!
Now that you have all these stitches and techniques in your bag, let's try doing a common sphere shape, which will make use of the magic circle, single crochet, increase and decrease.
I find following videos and crocheting along is one of the best way to learn. Reading instructions can give you a headache sometimes, but if you've someone there to guide you through it's a lot less painful.
Here's one version of crocheting a ball. You'll find others on youtube.
7. Magic Circle or Ring
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| See my earlier post on how to do the magic ring |
Also called: adjustable ring, magic loop
Good to know: You can substitute the initial "Ch 2. __ sc in 2nd chain from hook" instruction with the magic ring, doing the designated number of single crochets in the ring.
Tutorial: Check out my previous post.
8. Increase
Abbreviation: inc
How to: If you know how to do a single crochet, you know how to increase. Instead of working one single crochet into a stitch, you do more than one, which will increase the overall width (in rows) or circumference (in rounds).
Sometimes the pattern will just say "2 stitches in the next stitch", instead of "increase", and that's exactly what this is.
Purpose: Increasing (and decreasing) helps shape your amigurumi.
Good to know:
• Usually you will space out your increases evenly across the round. In patterns, for example, you'll see:
*1 sc in the next 2 st, inc* repeat 2 times
We'll look at deciphering patterns later, but the above basically means:
Stitch 1: 1 single crochet
Stitch 2: 1 single crochet
Stitch 3: 2 single crochets in the same stitch (= increase)
Stitch 4: 1 single crochet
Stitch 5: 1 single crochet
Stitch 6: 2 single crochets in the same stitch (= increase)
In your previous round, you have 6 stitches, and in this round, you'll have 8 stitches because of the increase.
• It's important to keep your increases gradual and incremental. If you increase too drastically right away, you'll end up having a bunched up look.• Increases are easy to do, but keeping track of how many stitches you've done and when you need to increase can be tricky in the beginning. Try a stitch counter.
9. Right Side and Wrong Side
• The "right side" (abbreviation: RS) = the front of your piece
• The "wrong" side= the back.
How to tell: The stitches look different (check out the video below)
Another quick way to tell in amigurumi that is worked in rounds is that the side with the yarn tail from your magic circle sticking out is the "wrong" side.
Good to know: Whether you choose to show the right or the wrong side of your piece to the world is really up to you, and unlike the names, there really is no right or wrong. To ensure your amigurumi's surface looks uniform, you just have to make sure that all your pieces have the same side showing.
More information and comparison:
• All About Ami
• Video from Nerdigurumi comparing the differences. Interestingly, the sizes and shapes of the balls change depending on which side you've showing:
10. Front Loops and Back Loops
You will come across instructions that tell you to work in a specific part of a stitch, so what are they talking about exactly?
Let Stitch Diva Studio explain with a photo tutorial.
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| Source: Stitch Diva Studio |
Take a look at this Crochet Spot's comparison.
11. Decrease
Abbreviation: dec, sc2tog (single crochet 2 together)
We saw how an increase makes the "circle" get bigger earlier. To make it go smaller, you'll need a decrease. Here, you're trying to join two stitches in the previous round together by making one stitch only.
How to:
1. Skip a stitch: generally not recommended because of the hole you'll leave in your piece.
2. Insert the hook into one stitch, yarn over, and draw up a loop. You don't complete that stitch, but insert the hook immediately into the next stitch, yarn over, and draw up another loop. Now you've three loops on your hook. You yarn over, and pull through all loops at once.
However...
I've never done anything but Planet June's invisible decrease to make sure the amigurumi looks as good as it can without too many bumps and holes caused by the decrease.
Source: Planet June. Click here for the left-handed version
You can also check out All About Ami's photo tutorial on how to do an invisible decrease.
p.s. An invisible decrease requires you to work in the front loops, hence all that talk earlier about parts of a stitch.
Putting it all together: Let's crochet something already!
Now that you have all these stitches and techniques in your bag, let's try doing a common sphere shape, which will make use of the magic circle, single crochet, increase and decrease.
I find following videos and crocheting along is one of the best way to learn. Reading instructions can give you a headache sometimes, but if you've someone there to guide you through it's a lot less painful.
Here's one version of crocheting a ball. You'll find others on youtube.
Video from unwindpatterns
Note: The crocheter in the video uses two different decreases techniques. You can see how your piece will look, and you can also substitute one row with the invisible decrease and see which method you like better.
Saturday, August 25, 2012
Free Crochet Pattern Roundup:
Moo Cows
At the fair the other day, we walked through the barn and saw a whole ton of cows. They looked nice and relaxed and kids were all snuggled up with them and didn't bother them one bit. Not as many white and black kinds as you'll find in cow amigurumi though.
Studio Ami has definitely perfected the idea of "cuteness".
A more anatomically correct cow perhaps?
And here's a cow tipping toy, complete with a noise maker.
How about a cow puppet to practise your moos?
Have fun crocheting!
Studio Ami has definitely perfected the idea of "cuteness".
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| Free pattern from Studio Ami |
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| Free Ravelry download from Marika Allely |
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| Free pattern by NeedleNoodles via Instructables |
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| Instructions from Crafting Creatures |
Thursday, August 23, 2012
Free Crochet Pattern Roundup: Coffee
It's seven in the morning and all I can think of that cup of Joe, so while mine is brewing, I thought I'd look up some coffee patterns.
My absolute favourite is Britanny's "You Made Me So Frappe", even though I generally drink black coffee. The fabric paint looks exactly like syrup.
This looks exactly like the cup of coffee I'm going to get...
but wait a second, look at the bottom!
So, this is supposed to be a cup of tea, but minus the teabag and you'll have a great pattern for a cup of coffee.
And looking for ways to decorate your coffee (you know those fancy frothed milk patterns?) Take inspiration from the following:
Mmm... Smells so good. Thank you to all the above people who have shared their patterns online.
My absolute favourite is Britanny's "You Made Me So Frappe", even though I generally drink black coffee. The fabric paint looks exactly like syrup.
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| Free Ravelry download from BritannyJackson |
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| Free pattern from The Left Side of Crochet |
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| Free pattern from Lion Brand Yarn |
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| From Roses n Lilies |
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| From Bitter Sweet |
Wednesday, August 22, 2012
Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner IV:
6 Basic Stitches & Techniques
Alright, you've got your hook and you've got your yarn. Now we're ready to make something.
To create amigurumi, there are not too, too many basic stitches you'll need to know. Since there are many video tutorials online, I'm going to jot down quirks I've learned along the way, and list good links to check out instead of reinventing the wheel.
Note: UK and Am patterns use different terminology, so be sure to check which version of terms the pattern is using.
Here are the basic stitches / techniques. Feel free to jump to the video tutorials if you just want to get right to it.
As you may have read from this post, many amigurumi pieces begin with a magic ring. However, to make a magic ring, you need to know how to do single crochet. So, to practise this common stitch, I'd recommend learning to do a chain first.
Making chains is useful to know anyway when you need to crochet something flat, like an applique for your amigurumi.
1. Slip Knot: Getting the Yarn on the Hook Before You Start
There are many different ways to tie this knot onto your hook.
Here are a couple: Crochet Spot • Stitch Diva Studios
Good to know: Slip knot doesn't count as a chain / a stitch.
2. Holding Your Yarn Just Right
With one hand holding your hook, the next thing is to figure out how to hold what is called the working yarn in the other hand.
There are again many different ways to do this. The important thing here is to keep the tension on the yarn at a comfortable level as you crochet. Most people on crochet videos I've watched have the yarn wrapped around their pinky finger, and they bring the yarn up and over the pointer finger, using those two fingers to adjust the amount of yarn you're "feeding" to your work.
Example: Crochet Spot
3. Yarn Over Hook (Often seen in patterns as YO)
Another fundamental in crochet. After you insert your hook, you will wrap the yarn around your hook before you draw your hook back out. In some stitches, you'll also wrap the yarn before you insert the hook. As the name implies, make sure the yarn is "on top" of the hook and not under.
4. Making a Chain
Next we'll make a chain (also called foundation chain). It looks very similar to the paper chains you may have made when you're small.
Abbreviation: ch
Chart symbol: circle / oval
Good to know:
• The slip knot doesn't count as a chain (even though sometimes it suspiciously looks like one)
• The loop on your hook also doesn't count.
• You want your chains to be uniform in size. Using your thumb and middle finger to hold onto the previous chain as you make the next chain will help.
5. Crocheting into the Chain
I didn't realize there are different ways to crochet into the chain until way later, and I was doing it not necessarily the wrong way but just not the most desirable in my opinion.
All three ways are "right" so to speak, and it's really a matter of personal preference. Detailed explanation can be found at Crochet Cabana. If you like your stitches nice and snug you may want to avoid the first method.
6. Single crochet: Basic of Basics
Finally! Now you're ready to build on that chain you made.
Abbreviation: sc
Chart symbol: X or + sign
UK equivalent: double crochet
Use: The bulk of what you'll do in amigurumi is single crochet, and that's why most people will tell you that amigurumi is not too, too hard to learn, because you don't have to know a lot of the fancy crochet stitches.
Tutorial: Crochet Spot, or check out the following video.
And putting it all together...
Watching someone else is my preferred way of learning, so here're some links and great videos that can show you all the things we've talked about so far. Keep an eye on how these crocheters hold the yarn and do yarn over and all that.
• Hooks and Needles: this is the series of videos I watched a few months ago to learn to crochet. These were the only tutorials that made sense to me at that time.
• How to Start Crochet with Mikey: The first 6 minutes of so of this video covers all the above techniques, then it moves to doing double crochet. You can't get clearer instructions than Mikey's in my humble opinion.
Phew. That was a long post, and we've only just got to the fun part. More basic stitches and techniques to come...
To create amigurumi, there are not too, too many basic stitches you'll need to know. Since there are many video tutorials online, I'm going to jot down quirks I've learned along the way, and list good links to check out instead of reinventing the wheel.
Note: UK and Am patterns use different terminology, so be sure to check which version of terms the pattern is using.
Here are the basic stitches / techniques. Feel free to jump to the video tutorials if you just want to get right to it.
As you may have read from this post, many amigurumi pieces begin with a magic ring. However, to make a magic ring, you need to know how to do single crochet. So, to practise this common stitch, I'd recommend learning to do a chain first.
Making chains is useful to know anyway when you need to crochet something flat, like an applique for your amigurumi.
Here are a couple: Crochet Spot • Stitch Diva Studios
Good to know: Slip knot doesn't count as a chain / a stitch.
2. Holding Your Yarn Just Right
With one hand holding your hook, the next thing is to figure out how to hold what is called the working yarn in the other hand.
There are again many different ways to do this. The important thing here is to keep the tension on the yarn at a comfortable level as you crochet. Most people on crochet videos I've watched have the yarn wrapped around their pinky finger, and they bring the yarn up and over the pointer finger, using those two fingers to adjust the amount of yarn you're "feeding" to your work.
Example: Crochet Spot
3. Yarn Over Hook (Often seen in patterns as YO)
4. Making a Chain
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| Pop quiz: how many chains have been made so far? |
Abbreviation: ch
Good to know:
• The slip knot doesn't count as a chain (even though sometimes it suspiciously looks like one)
• The loop on your hook also doesn't count.
• You want your chains to be uniform in size. Using your thumb and middle finger to hold onto the previous chain as you make the next chain will help.
Chain Stitch Tutorial: Moogly
5. Crocheting into the Chain
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| The middle strand is basically the bottom strand of the next chain |
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| Insert your hook under the top strand of the chain |
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| Or insert your hook under the top and middle, right above the bottom strand |
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| Or turn your chain over and insert it into the "hump" on the back of the chain |
6. Single crochet: Basic of Basics
Finally! Now you're ready to build on that chain you made.
Abbreviation: sc
Chart symbol: X or + sign
UK equivalent: double crochet
Use: The bulk of what you'll do in amigurumi is single crochet, and that's why most people will tell you that amigurumi is not too, too hard to learn, because you don't have to know a lot of the fancy crochet stitches.
Tutorial: Crochet Spot, or check out the following video.
Video and Illustrated Tutorial: Lion Brand
And putting it all together...
Watching someone else is my preferred way of learning, so here're some links and great videos that can show you all the things we've talked about so far. Keep an eye on how these crocheters hold the yarn and do yarn over and all that.
• Hooks and Needles: this is the series of videos I watched a few months ago to learn to crochet. These were the only tutorials that made sense to me at that time.
• How to Start Crochet with Mikey: The first 6 minutes of so of this video covers all the above techniques, then it moves to doing double crochet. You can't get clearer instructions than Mikey's in my humble opinion.
Video tutorial from Mikey
• SassySophelia: First 6 minutes or so shows how to do a slip knot, a chain and single crochet.Phew. That was a long post, and we've only just got to the fun part. More basic stitches and techniques to come...
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
Amigurumi Pattern: Blue Badger from Phoenix Wright Ace Attorney
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| "Wriggling piece of plywood" |
And here he is: Blue Badger!
My husband loves his video games, and he'll often attach himself to these weird but cute characters in them. Blue Badger is one of his favourites. Blue Badger is the mascot of the police department from the DS game Phoenix Wright: Ace Attorney, and all his fans know the tune to his little dance.
Not sure how many people are going to make their very own Blue Badger, but I thought I'd put the pattern down anyway. Hope you like it! Sorry I don't have any more pictures of the individual pieces. I always forget to take pics during crocheting.
Yarn, Hook and Other Materials:
(feel free to substitute with your favourite worsted weight yarn and hook size)
E hook / 3.5mm hook
Light blue yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Light Blue
White yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch White
Yellow yarn: Red Heart Kids Yellow
Small amount of red yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Really Red
Small amount of grey yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Pewter
Small amount of black yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Black
Yarn needle to weave in ends and sew mouth
Grey and black embroidery thread
Small piece of white and black felt
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
A toothpick and black felt pen
Dimensions / Gauge:
Blue Badger is approximately 7" tall and 4" wide (measuring from crown).
Exact gauge is not important, but as with all amigurumi, crochet tightly to make sure no stuffing will be seen between stitches.
Abbreviations used: (US terms)
rnd round
sc single crochet
st stitch
sl st slip stitch
inv dec invisible decrease
ch chain
Number in ( ) at the end of each round: total number of stitches you should have by the end of the round.
Head (without the crown)
Using white yarn
| Rnd 1 | Make a magic ring with 7 sc in it (7). |
| Rnd 2 | 2 sc in each st (14) |
| Rnd 3 | *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (21) |
| Rnd 4 | *1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (28) |
| Rnd 5 | *1 sc in next 3 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (35) |
| Rnd 6 | *1 sc in next 4 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (42) |
| Rnd 7 | *1 sc in next 5 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (49) |
| Rnd 8-14 | 1 sc in each st around (49) |
| Rnd 15 | *1 sc in next 5 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (42) |
| Rnd 16 | *1 sc in next 4 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (35) |
| Start stuffing | |
| Rnd 17 | *1 sc in next 3 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (28) |
| Rnd 18 | *1 sc in next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (21) |
| Rnd 19 | *1 sc in next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (14) |
| Rnd 20 | Inv dec in each st around (7) |
Using light blue yarn. We're working from the bottom to the top.
| Rnd 1 | Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6) |
| Rnd 2 | 2 sc in each st (12) |
| Rnd 3 | *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18) |
| Rnd 4 | *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (24) |
| Rnd 5-11 | 1 sc in each st around (24) |
| Rnd 12 | *1 sc in next 10 st, then inv dec * repeat 2 times (22) |
| Rnd 13 | *1 sc in next 4 st, then inv dec * repeat 3 times, then 1 sc in the last 4 st (19) |
| Rnd 14 | *1 sc in next 3 st, then inv dec * repeat 3 times, then 1 sc in the next 2 st, then inv dec (15) |
White Patch on Tummy
Using white yarn: I worked this one in joined rounds (instructional video link), instead of continuous or spiral, to ensure that the shape turns out circular (so you'll begin with ch 1 and end with sl st in every round)
| Rnd 1 | Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6). |
| Rnd 2 | 2 sc in each st (12). |
| Rnd 3 | *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18). |
| Rnd 4 | *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (24). |
Arms (Make 2)
Using light blue yarn. We're working from the hand to the arm
| Rnd 1 | Make a magic ring with 5 sc in it (5) |
| Rnd 2 | 2 sc in each st around (10) |
| Rnd 3 | *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 5 times (15) |
| Rnd 4-5 | 1 sc in each st around (15) Start stuffing |
| Rnd 6 | *1 sc in next st, then inv dec* repeat 5 times (10) |
| Rnd 7 | *1 sc in next 2 st, then inv dec * repeat 2 times, then 1 sc in the last 2 st (8) |
| Rnd 8-9 | 1 sc in each st around (8) |
| Rnd 10-11 | 1 sc in each st around in the front loop only (8) Fasten off. To make it look nicer, you may want to try this invisible join method. Add more stuffing. |
| Rnd 12 | With a new light blue yarn, work in the back loops of Rnd 10, do *1 sc in the next 2 st, then inv dec* 2 times. (6) |
| Rnd 13-16 | 1 sc in each st around in both loops (6) |
Legs (Make 2)
Using light blue yarn
| Rnd 1 | Ch 5. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in the remaining 2 st. Rotate your piece, and do 1 sc in each loop of the other side of the chain (8) |
| Rnd 2-6 | 1 sc in each st around |
This part was a little complicated to figure out, so if you can think of any alternative techniques to make this, I'd really like to hear it.
Hopefully the instructions make sense.
We're going to start with the middle triangle.
| Rnd 1 | Make a magic ring with 4 sc in it (4) |
| Rnd 2 | *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 2 times (6) |
| Rnd 3 | *1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 2 times (8) |
| Rnd 4 | *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 4 times (12) |
| Rnd 5 | *1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18) |
| Rnd 6 | *1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next * repeat 6 times (24) |
| Rnd 7 | Now we're going to work on the triangular tips on both sides. 1 sc in the next 11 st. Ch 12, and sl st into the next st to finish the round. |
| Rnd 8 | 1 sc in the next 11 st. Moving onto the chain, 1 sc in the bottom loop of the chain (12 sc all together), 1 sc in the next 11 st, then when you reach the chain, 1 sc in the bottom loop of the 12 chains. (46) |
| Rnd 9 | 1 sc in the next 16 st, (you should have reach the tip of farthest left or right point) 1 inv dec, 1 sc in the next 20 st (reach the other tip), 1 inv dec, 1 sc in the last 6 st. |
| Rnd 10 | Now we're going to add the triangular flap that goes on the front of the head between the eyes. Sl st into the next 2 st. Ch 1. 1 sc in the next 7 st. Ch 1. Turn. (7 for the flap) |
| Rnd 11 | Inv dec, 1 sc in the next 3 st, 1 inv dec (5) |
| Rnd 12 | Inv dec, 1 sc in the next 2 st (4) |
| Rnd 13 | Inv dec, 1 sc in the next st (3) |
| Rnd 14 | Inv dec (1) |
Now we're going to complete the other two "cones" on the top.
To determine where to start, just remember that if you're right handed, you are crocheting right to left and clockwise, and the opposite for left-handed.
| Rnd 1 | Insert hook into the top of the first ch. Draw up a loop with the new yarn and ch 1. 1 sc into the same st, then 1 sc in the remaining 11 st. Connect to the middle triangle by doing 1 sc into one of the stitches there. (13) |
| Rnd 2 | *1 sc in the next st, 1 inv dec* repeat 4 times, 1 sc (9) |
| Rnd 3 | 1 sc in each st around (9) |
| Rnd 4 | Dec all around (repeat 4 times), then 1 sc (5) |
Do the same for the cone on other side.
Balls on the "Crown" (Make 3)
Using yellow yarn
| Rnd 1 | Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6) |
| Rnd 2 | 2 sc in each st around (12) |
| Rnd 3-4 | 1 sc in each st around (12) Start stuffing |
| Rnd 5 | *1 sc in the next st, then inv dec* repeat 6 times (6) |
Red Baton
Using red yarn. Lightly stuff.
| Rnd 1 | Make a magic ring with 3 sc in it (3) |
| Rnd 2 | 2 sc in each st around (6) |
| Rnd 3-6 | 1 sc in each st around (6) Start light stuffing |
| Rnd 7 | *1 sc in the next st, then inv dec* repeat 2 times (4) |
| Rnd 8 | 1 sc in each st around (4) |
Using yellow yarn.
| Rnd 1 | Ch 9. Turn. |
| Rnd 2 | Staring from 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each (8). Ch 1. Turn. |
| Rnd 3-5 | 1 sc in each st (8) Ch 1. Turn |
Cut toothpick to your desired length (should be longer than what's showing to account for the bit you've poked into the hand). Paint it black (is the song stuck in your head?) with a permanent black felt or whatever you can find. When it's dry, poke it through the side of the flag.
Belt, Sash and Duct Tape on His Crown
For the next three parts: Because your Blue Badger's body may be bigger or smaller (depending on what hook you use / how tight you crochet), it's not really possible to give the number of chains you need for these three parts.
I recommend wrapping the chain around yours frequently to see how many more chains you have to make.
Another cool technique you may want to try that allows you to add length to a chain easily is doing a foundation single crochet, instead of a foundation chain. Check out the detailed photo & video tutorial from futuregirl blog.
Using black yarn
| Rnd 1 | Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 26). |
| Rnd 2 | Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch. |
Sash
Using grey yarn
| Rnd 1 | Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 39). |
| Rnd 2 | Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch. |
Duct Tape
Using grey yarn
| Rnd 1 | Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 18). |
| Rnd 2 | Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch. |
Notes for Assembly:
-White tummy patch should go on before the belt, then the sash.
-For the belt buckle, I just take sew a rectangular shape over the belt using grey yarn.
-The triangular flap between the eyes may look like it's too big, but it will get smaller once you sew it onto the head.
-Eyes are made from a small white and a small black oval shaped piece of felt.
There you go. Have fun making your own Blue Badger! Blue is not your colour? There is a pink badger!
Pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell items made from it (charity okay). Please do not reproduce the pattern anywhere, but link to this post. Thanks!
Saturday, August 18, 2012
Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner III:
Yarn
What yarn to choose? Here are some other expert opinions:
• The Silver Hook: advantages of acrylic yarn
• Freshstitches: review of wool, animal yarns, cottom, soy and bamboo
• Nerdigurumi: a case for cotton yarn
(I got a small skein of cotton / acrylic blend the other day and I love it. The stitches are so crisp. That particular Bernat yarn is discontinued though, and others I've seen are on the expensive side though, so I'm going to treasure my little skein)
• Craft Passion: how to substitute yarn
Learn how to read the stuff on a yarn label
• Craft Yarn Council
• Lion Brand Blog
What else & my two cents:
• Start with a lighter colour: The first ball of yarn I got was black, since it's my favourite colour, and I figure black will come in handy, but what I learned afterwards is that darker yarn makes it harder to see the stitches. No wonder I was having a hard time figuring out where I was supposed to insert the hook and where one stitch ends and the next stitch begins.
(Oh, and did you know that there are actually crochet hooks that will light up so you can see the stitches more clearly? Weird stuff.)
• Start with a cheaper and thicker yarn: Yarn is relatively cheap anyway when you consider how you can usually make a few amigurumi projects out of one skein. The various ones I've bought range from $3.99 Cdn to $6.99. While I sometimes find the cheaper ones (like the super saver kinds) are actually easier to crochet with, I do prefer the feel of the ones that are softer (like the Red Heart Soft Touch or the Bernat Satin). The problem with those is that in the beginning, when I wasn't used to the motions of crocheting, not to mention I was probably poking in all the wrong places and had to redo stitches frequently, I found the yarn split easily and that got me even more confused. I would suggest trying a cheap and thicker yarn as a starter to minimize the frustration.
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| Be sure to check out Planet June's experiment with different yarn (pic source: Planet June) |
Having said that, sometimes it's unavoidable when only a certain brand has that perfect colour you need. You may have to do an increase / decrease to adjust as you're crocheting along.
• Shine or no shine? Some yarn also has a shine to it (like Bernat Satin), and you may or may not like that effect, so watch for that.
• Giving your amigurumi to babies and kids? You may want to look for yarn that is washable.
Here're the websites of some common yarn brands. The sites are also good for free patterns.
• Red Heart
• Bernat
• Lion Brand
• Patons
• Caron
• Lily Sugar'n Creme
• Michael's Loops & Threads
Friday, August 17, 2012
Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner II:
Crochet Hooks
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| My Go-To Clover E 3.5mm Soft Touch Crochet Hook |
Here are two articles about crochet hooks:
• Nerdigurumi: An overview of the different parts of a hook, and a comparison of various brands.
• The Itsy Bitsy Spider: Another overview, a size chart (US and metric size), plus a look at crochet hooks made from different materials and how they affect your crocheting.
Learn how to hold a crochet hook:
• Crochet Spot: Photos on two most common methods: the pencil and the knife holds.
What else and my two cents:
• Each yarn label will tell you the recommended size of hook to use. For amigurumi projects, you usually use a hook one or two sizes smaller than the suggested size because you need to crochet tightly so no stuffing shows through.
• If you are having trouble inserting your hook in the stitches, that means you're crocheting too tightly and you can try a bigger hook. If your work ends up having more holes and the stuffing is showing, you should go one size down.
• A related concept is gauge, and that's another nice thing about amigurumi: you don't have to worry about gauge. Your creation usually doesn't have to "fit" someone, unlike crocheted clothing for example.
• What's your favourite crochet hook? The hook I used the most is the Size E Clover Soft Touch. I first started crocheting with another brand without the thumb rest, but after using the Clover kind, I'm never going back. (Make it more comfy to hold your hooks with pencil grips. Check out the tutorial on Instructables.)
• Be prepared for some aches and pain in your hands, especially in the beginning. Here's a good reminder video to keep your hand relaxed while crocheting.
Source: howcast & Lion Brand studio
Next up: Yarn
Thursday, August 16, 2012
Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner I:
General Introduction
If you've been in awe of amazing amigurumi creations... (here are some of my favourites)
...and are wondering whether you should learn how to make amigurumi (and the answer is yes!), start with these general introductions so you can get an idea of what you're up against.
• All About Ami: An excellent starting point if you want to learn more about amigurumi (materials and basic stitches)
• Freshstitches: Download the free eBook, including a penguin pattern.
• Craft Passion: Another quick guide to amigurumi.
• If books are more your kind of thing, you should definitely check out The Complete Idiot's Guide to Amigurumi by June Gilbank from your local library. It's got everything in it, seriously!
Next up: Crochet Hooks and Yarn and Other Materials
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| By Flickr user voxmortuum |
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| By Croshame |
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| By Crafty Is Cool |
• All About Ami: An excellent starting point if you want to learn more about amigurumi (materials and basic stitches)
• Freshstitches: Download the free eBook, including a penguin pattern.
• Craft Passion: Another quick guide to amigurumi.
• If books are more your kind of thing, you should definitely check out The Complete Idiot's Guide to Amigurumi by June Gilbank from your local library. It's got everything in it, seriously!
Upcoming Posts: Amigurumi Basics by A Beginner
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| One day, I'll make you, Doraemon, I promise! |
Three months ago, I dug up the amigurumi kit I've hidden in my closet for eight years, pulled out the hook and yarn, and watched my first video on how to crochet. With all the wonderful tutorials, tips and patterns others have shared online, I've discovered a wonderful and relaxing (mostly) hobby that I think will stick with me for a long time.
I thought while I still have a newbie mind and still remember all the things I struggle through, I'm going to write down all the things I've gathered online so far in my upcoming posts. I for one was, and still am, constantly stumped by instructions in patterns, which often include terms that may be second nature to seasoned crocheters but are totally baffling to beginners. (I still remember the first time I saw "FO". What is FO and how to do it?) I've had my share of digging up explanations online, so hopefully all this stuff I've gathered will save you some time.
Learn: Adding Hair to Amigurumi
I'm working on a gift for a coworker, who is sadly moving back to the States, and I am going to have to figure out how to add hair to my amigurumi. (Um...I don't think the three strands on Wimpy Kid's Greg Heffley count).
Thought I'd share the following posts and tutorials to showcase the different ways of attaching hair:
1. Owlishly
Method: Create a wig cap (which is basically crocheting half of the head in the hair colour), then embroider hair on top of it strand by strand to style the look.
This is by far the most intense method, but just look at the results! So natural and so beautiful. It's worth all the extra work I think. Just check out some of her work if you are still unsure of the time required.
Unfortunately the yarn she used (Bernat Cool Crochet in Chocolate) is discontinued :(
2. EssHaych
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Method: Latch hook style, adding hair one strand at a time directly onto head.
It looks pretty time consuming too, but perhaps a good one if you want a fuzzier look. Another look at this method can be found on Ana Paula's Amigurumi Patterns & Random Cuteness.
3. NeedleNoodles
Method: Making a fringe and then sewing that to the head.
As the author suggested, it's easier and faster than doing it strand by strand. I've tried it by winding the hair around a cardboard and it seems to work just as well, if you don't have the fancy tool.
Updated Sep 28: another tutorial on Woolly Toons
4. K and J Dolls Blog
Method: A blend of #2 and #3. Using the cardboard method to create equal length hair strands, then grabbing multiple strands together and sewing the bunch directly onto the head.
Other tips I've found:
-K and J Dolls Blog: you can do the top half of the head in the hair colour if you don't want to create a wig.
-MyGurumi: use fuzzy / eyelash yarn to create hair quickly, or try doing bobbles.
-By Hook, By Hand: A Flickr step by step photo tutorial on how to create wigs
-Xanadoodle: Here's a fun explanation on how to create different hairstyles using Star Trek characters as examples.
-Regardless of the method you use, you almost always start with determining your amigurumi's hairline.
-Get some thinner yarn to make a more natural look.
-Thick curly hair can be done by making a chain, then adding a longer stitch (hdc instead of sc for example) at regular intervals, or by crocheting increases all the way through. The yarn will naturally curl. For thinner curly hair, you may try unwinding your yarn into its individual strands.
Looking forward to trying some of these hair styles.
Thought I'd share the following posts and tutorials to showcase the different ways of attaching hair:
1. Owlishly
Method: Create a wig cap (which is basically crocheting half of the head in the hair colour), then embroider hair on top of it strand by strand to style the look.
This is by far the most intense method, but just look at the results! So natural and so beautiful. It's worth all the extra work I think. Just check out some of her work if you are still unsure of the time required.
Unfortunately the yarn she used (Bernat Cool Crochet in Chocolate) is discontinued :(
2. EssHaych
Method: Latch hook style, adding hair one strand at a time directly onto head.
It looks pretty time consuming too, but perhaps a good one if you want a fuzzier look. Another look at this method can be found on Ana Paula's Amigurumi Patterns & Random Cuteness.
3. NeedleNoodles
Method: Making a fringe and then sewing that to the head.
As the author suggested, it's easier and faster than doing it strand by strand. I've tried it by winding the hair around a cardboard and it seems to work just as well, if you don't have the fancy tool.
Updated Sep 28: another tutorial on Woolly Toons
4. K and J Dolls Blog
Method: A blend of #2 and #3. Using the cardboard method to create equal length hair strands, then grabbing multiple strands together and sewing the bunch directly onto the head.
Other tips I've found:
-K and J Dolls Blog: you can do the top half of the head in the hair colour if you don't want to create a wig.
-MyGurumi: use fuzzy / eyelash yarn to create hair quickly, or try doing bobbles.
-By Hook, By Hand: A Flickr step by step photo tutorial on how to create wigs
-Xanadoodle: Here's a fun explanation on how to create different hairstyles using Star Trek characters as examples.
-Regardless of the method you use, you almost always start with determining your amigurumi's hairline.
-Get some thinner yarn to make a more natural look.
-Thick curly hair can be done by making a chain, then adding a longer stitch (hdc instead of sc for example) at regular intervals, or by crocheting increases all the way through. The yarn will naturally curl. For thinner curly hair, you may try unwinding your yarn into its individual strands.
Looking forward to trying some of these hair styles.
Monday, August 13, 2012
Free Crochet Pattern Roundup: Shark Week
I don't understand what the deal is with Shark Week, but here are some really cool shark crochet patterns. Thanks again for sharing them, you generous people!
Look at this adorable shark hat for the whole family.
Love the mouth on this shark amigurumi. The pattern includes photo tutorial on how to do the open mouth
Look at this adorable shark hat for the whole family.
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| Free pattern from Crochet Today |
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| Free pattern from Karen's Knittin' Crap |
Yikes, scuba diver, watch out for that shark
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| Free pattern from Yarn Juleps on the Veranda |
How about something not as scary?
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| Free pattern from Rikka Mitsam (PDF) |
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