Here is an edging to a granny square piece:
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| Source: ATERGcrochet on Etsy |
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| Source: Petals to Picots |
And look at this amazing bag:
Recent Posts
Saturday, September 8, 2012
Made: Crochet Owl Applique
Here is an edging to a granny square piece:
Sunday, September 2, 2012
Free Crochet Pattern Roundup: Back to School
It's that time of the year again. Back to school. I remember those days, and the most exciting thing is always getting school supplies. Is that what you'll be doing this weekend?
A set of crayons for art classes.
Art is not your thing? What is your favourite school subject? Chemistry perhaps?
Don't forget to take good notes from your classes.
And you'll pass with flying colours
A set of crayons for art classes.
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| Free pattern from Crochet N Play Designs |
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| Free pattern from Shanna's Journal |
| Free pattern from Greetingarts |
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| Free pattern from All About Ami |
Monday, August 27, 2012
Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner V:
5 More Basic Stitches & Techniques
Here're five more basic amigurumi techniques (click here for Part I):
7. Magic Circle or Ring
Now that you've mastered the single crochet, let's go back and learn the magic ring, the preferred way of starting an amigurumi round.
Also called: adjustable ring, magic loop
Good to know: You can substitute the initial "Ch 2. __ sc in 2nd chain from hook" instruction with the magic ring, doing the designated number of single crochets in the ring.
Tutorial: Check out my previous post.
8. Increase
Abbreviation: inc
How to: If you know how to do a single crochet, you know how to increase. Instead of working one single crochet into a stitch, you do more than one, which will increase the overall width (in rows) or circumference (in rounds).
Sometimes the pattern will just say "2 stitches in the next stitch", instead of "increase", and that's exactly what this is.
Purpose: Increasing (and decreasing) helps shape your amigurumi.
Good to know:
• Usually you will space out your increases evenly across the round. In patterns, for example, you'll see:
• Increases are easy to do, but keeping track of how many stitches you've done and when you need to increase can be tricky in the beginning. Try a stitch counter.
9. Right Side and Wrong Side
• The "right side" (abbreviation: RS) = the front of your piece
• The "wrong" side= the back.
How to tell: The stitches look different (check out the video below)
Another quick way to tell in amigurumi that is worked in rounds is that the side with the yarn tail from your magic circle sticking out is the "wrong" side.
Good to know: Whether you choose to show the right or the wrong side of your piece to the world is really up to you, and unlike the names, there really is no right or wrong. To ensure your amigurumi's surface looks uniform, you just have to make sure that all your pieces have the same side showing.
More information and comparison:
• All About Ami
• Video from Nerdigurumi comparing the differences. Interestingly, the sizes and shapes of the balls change depending on which side you've showing:
10. Front Loops and Back Loops
You will come across instructions that tell you to work in a specific part of a stitch, so what are they talking about exactly?
Let Stitch Diva Studio explain with a photo tutorial.
Good to know: Stitches that are worked in, for example, just the front loop, will look different from stitches that are worked in, say, the back loops. Crochet makes use of the different looks to add texture to your piece.
Take a look at this Crochet Spot's comparison.
11. Decrease
Abbreviation: dec, sc2tog (single crochet 2 together)
We saw how an increase makes the "circle" get bigger earlier. To make it go smaller, you'll need a decrease. Here, you're trying to join two stitches in the previous round together by making one stitch only.
How to:
1. Skip a stitch: generally not recommended because of the hole you'll leave in your piece.
2. Insert the hook into one stitch, yarn over, and draw up a loop. You don't complete that stitch, but insert the hook immediately into the next stitch, yarn over, and draw up another loop. Now you've three loops on your hook. You yarn over, and pull through all loops at once.
However...
I've never done anything but Planet June's invisible decrease to make sure the amigurumi looks as good as it can without too many bumps and holes caused by the decrease.
You can also check out All About Ami's photo tutorial on how to do an invisible decrease.
p.s. An invisible decrease requires you to work in the front loops, hence all that talk earlier about parts of a stitch.
Putting it all together: Let's crochet something already!
Now that you have all these stitches and techniques in your bag, let's try doing a common sphere shape, which will make use of the magic circle, single crochet, increase and decrease.
I find following videos and crocheting along is one of the best way to learn. Reading instructions can give you a headache sometimes, but if you've someone there to guide you through it's a lot less painful.
Here's one version of crocheting a ball. You'll find others on youtube.
7. Magic Circle or Ring
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| See my earlier post on how to do the magic ring |
Also called: adjustable ring, magic loop
Good to know: You can substitute the initial "Ch 2. __ sc in 2nd chain from hook" instruction with the magic ring, doing the designated number of single crochets in the ring.
Tutorial: Check out my previous post.
8. Increase
Abbreviation: inc
How to: If you know how to do a single crochet, you know how to increase. Instead of working one single crochet into a stitch, you do more than one, which will increase the overall width (in rows) or circumference (in rounds).
Sometimes the pattern will just say "2 stitches in the next stitch", instead of "increase", and that's exactly what this is.
Purpose: Increasing (and decreasing) helps shape your amigurumi.
Good to know:
• Usually you will space out your increases evenly across the round. In patterns, for example, you'll see:
*1 sc in the next 2 st, inc* repeat 2 times
We'll look at deciphering patterns later, but the above basically means:
Stitch 1: 1 single crochet
Stitch 2: 1 single crochet
Stitch 3: 2 single crochets in the same stitch (= increase)
Stitch 4: 1 single crochet
Stitch 5: 1 single crochet
Stitch 6: 2 single crochets in the same stitch (= increase)
In your previous round, you have 6 stitches, and in this round, you'll have 8 stitches because of the increase.
• It's important to keep your increases gradual and incremental. If you increase too drastically right away, you'll end up having a bunched up look.• Increases are easy to do, but keeping track of how many stitches you've done and when you need to increase can be tricky in the beginning. Try a stitch counter.
9. Right Side and Wrong Side
• The "right side" (abbreviation: RS) = the front of your piece
• The "wrong" side= the back.
How to tell: The stitches look different (check out the video below)
Another quick way to tell in amigurumi that is worked in rounds is that the side with the yarn tail from your magic circle sticking out is the "wrong" side.
Good to know: Whether you choose to show the right or the wrong side of your piece to the world is really up to you, and unlike the names, there really is no right or wrong. To ensure your amigurumi's surface looks uniform, you just have to make sure that all your pieces have the same side showing.
More information and comparison:
• All About Ami
• Video from Nerdigurumi comparing the differences. Interestingly, the sizes and shapes of the balls change depending on which side you've showing:
10. Front Loops and Back Loops
You will come across instructions that tell you to work in a specific part of a stitch, so what are they talking about exactly?
Let Stitch Diva Studio explain with a photo tutorial.
 |
| Source: Stitch Diva Studio |
Take a look at this Crochet Spot's comparison.
11. Decrease
Abbreviation: dec, sc2tog (single crochet 2 together)
We saw how an increase makes the "circle" get bigger earlier. To make it go smaller, you'll need a decrease. Here, you're trying to join two stitches in the previous round together by making one stitch only.
How to:
1. Skip a stitch: generally not recommended because of the hole you'll leave in your piece.
2. Insert the hook into one stitch, yarn over, and draw up a loop. You don't complete that stitch, but insert the hook immediately into the next stitch, yarn over, and draw up another loop. Now you've three loops on your hook. You yarn over, and pull through all loops at once.
However...
I've never done anything but Planet June's invisible decrease to make sure the amigurumi looks as good as it can without too many bumps and holes caused by the decrease.
Source: Planet June. Click here for the left-handed version
You can also check out All About Ami's photo tutorial on how to do an invisible decrease.
p.s. An invisible decrease requires you to work in the front loops, hence all that talk earlier about parts of a stitch.
Putting it all together: Let's crochet something already!
Now that you have all these stitches and techniques in your bag, let's try doing a common sphere shape, which will make use of the magic circle, single crochet, increase and decrease.
I find following videos and crocheting along is one of the best way to learn. Reading instructions can give you a headache sometimes, but if you've someone there to guide you through it's a lot less painful.
Here's one version of crocheting a ball. You'll find others on youtube.
Video from unwindpatterns
Note: The crocheter in the video uses two different decreases techniques. You can see how your piece will look, and you can also substitute one row with the invisible decrease and see which method you like better.
Sunday, August 26, 2012
Win 5000 Feet of Yarn!
See also my posts on the crocodile stitch: How to • Pattern: Crochet Owl
Saturday, August 25, 2012
Free Crochet Pattern Roundup:
Moo Cows
At the fair the other day, we walked through the barn and saw a whole ton of cows. They looked nice and relaxed and kids were all snuggled up with them and didn't bother them one bit. Not as many white and black kinds as you'll find in cow amigurumi though.
Studio Ami has definitely perfected the idea of "cuteness".
A more anatomically correct cow perhaps?
And here's a cow tipping toy, complete with a noise maker.
How about a cow puppet to practise your moos?
Have fun crocheting!
Studio Ami has definitely perfected the idea of "cuteness".
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| Free pattern from Studio Ami |
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| Free Ravelry download from Marika Allely |
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| Free pattern by NeedleNoodles via Instructables |
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| Instructions from Crafting Creatures |
Friday, August 24, 2012
Quick Tip: Single Crochet in Reverse (technique from tapestry crochet)
When I made my Neapolitan Ice Cream Popsicle, one thing that irked me was that the strawberry and vanilla parts are done in rounds, while the chocolate part has to be done in rows. Because doing rows involves turning, the back of the stitches will show up in alternate rows on the outside of the popsicle (the "right side" in crochet terms).
I tried to tell myself that the stitches look close enough, but I know they're not.
Here's how turning makes your piece look. Notice the ridges on the surface.
At that point, the only alternative way I could find is not to turn and just crochet with your other hand (left in my case) every other row. I tried, believe me, I tried, but my left hand just wasn't cooperating.
Today, I stumbled upon a video on flat tapestry crochet, and long and behold, there is a way that doesn't involve me trying to be ambidextrous.
Meet single crochet in reverse.
All you have to do is that for the rows where you're working with the wrong side of the piece facing you, you insert the hook into the stitch from back to front, instead of the usual way.
Here's a demo from Toni Rexroat from CrochetMe:
And this is how your piece will look like (left), compared to the original (right):
I know I'm probably being too picky, but it can make a difference on an amigurumi. Anyway, just another technique for your consideration. Enjoy!
I tried to tell myself that the stitches look close enough, but I know they're not.
Here's how turning makes your piece look. Notice the ridges on the surface.
At that point, the only alternative way I could find is not to turn and just crochet with your other hand (left in my case) every other row. I tried, believe me, I tried, but my left hand just wasn't cooperating.
Today, I stumbled upon a video on flat tapestry crochet, and long and behold, there is a way that doesn't involve me trying to be ambidextrous.
Meet single crochet in reverse.
All you have to do is that for the rows where you're working with the wrong side of the piece facing you, you insert the hook into the stitch from back to front, instead of the usual way.
Here's a demo from Toni Rexroat from CrochetMe:
And this is how your piece will look like (left), compared to the original (right):
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| Hurray! The stitches look the same on the right side. |
Thursday, August 23, 2012
Free Crochet Pattern Roundup: Coffee
It's seven in the morning and all I can think of that cup of Joe, so while mine is brewing, I thought I'd look up some coffee patterns.
My absolute favourite is Britanny's "You Made Me So Frappe", even though I generally drink black coffee. The fabric paint looks exactly like syrup.
This looks exactly like the cup of coffee I'm going to get...
but wait a second, look at the bottom!
So, this is supposed to be a cup of tea, but minus the teabag and you'll have a great pattern for a cup of coffee.
And looking for ways to decorate your coffee (you know those fancy frothed milk patterns?) Take inspiration from the following:
Mmm... Smells so good. Thank you to all the above people who have shared their patterns online.
My absolute favourite is Britanny's "You Made Me So Frappe", even though I generally drink black coffee. The fabric paint looks exactly like syrup.
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| Free Ravelry download from BritannyJackson |
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| Free pattern from The Left Side of Crochet |
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| Free pattern from Lion Brand Yarn |
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| From Roses n Lilies |
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| From Bitter Sweet |
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