Amigurumi Pattern: Blue Badger from Phoenix Wright Ace Attorney

"Wriggling piece of plywood"

After I've crocheted some stuff for myself, I wanted to make something for my husband as a surprise. I had to secretly work on it for weeks. I told him I was crocheting something for him, but he couldn't quite figure out what. Success.
And here he is: Blue Badger!
My husband loves his video games, and he'll often attach himself to these weird but cute characters in them. Blue Badger is one of his favourites. Blue Badger is the mascot of the police department from the DS game Phoenix Wright: Ace Attorney, and all his fans know the tune to his little dance.

Not sure how many people are going to make their very own Blue Badger, but I thought I'd put the pattern down anyway.  Hope you like it!  Sorry I don't have any more pictures of the individual pieces. I always forget to take pics during crocheting.

Yarn, Hook and Other Materials:
(feel free to substitute with your favourite worsted weight yarn and hook size)
E hook / 3.5mm hook
Light blue yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Light Blue
White yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch White
Yellow yarn: Red Heart Kids Yellow
Small amount of red yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Really Red
Small amount of grey yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Pewter
Small amount of black yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch Black
Yarn needle to weave in ends and sew mouth
Grey and black embroidery thread
Small piece of white and black felt
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
A toothpick and black felt pen

Dimensions / Gauge:
Blue Badger is approximately 7" tall and 4" wide (measuring from crown).
Exact gauge is not important, but as with all amigurumi, crochet tightly to make sure no stuffing will be seen between stitches.

Abbreviations used: (US terms)
rnd round
sc single crochet
st stitch
sl st         slip stitch
inv dec    invisible decrease
ch chain
Number in ( ) at the end of each round: total number of stitches you should have by the end of the round.

Head (without the crown)
Using white yarn

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 7 sc in it (7).
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (14)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (21)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (28)
Rnd 5	*1 sc in next 3 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (35)
Rnd 6	*1 sc in next 4 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (42)
Rnd 7	*1 sc in next 5 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 7 times (49)
Rnd 8-14	1 sc in each st around (49)
Rnd 15	*1 sc in next 5 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (42)
Rnd 16	*1 sc in next 4 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (35)
Start stuffing
Rnd 17	*1 sc in next 3 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (28)
Rnd 18	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (21)
Rnd 19	*1 sc in next st, then 1 inv dec* repeat 7 times (14)
Rnd 20	Inv dec in each st around (7)

Finish stuffing and close the hole (may I suggest PlanetJune's Ultimate Finish method?) and hide the tail inside the head. 

Body
Using light blue yarn. We're working from the bottom to the top.

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5-11	1 sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 12	*1 sc in next 10 st, then inv dec * repeat 2 times (22)
Rnd 13	*1 sc in next 4 st, then inv dec * repeat 3 times, then 1 sc in the last 4 st (19)
Rnd 14	*1 sc in next 3 st, then inv dec * repeat 3 times, then 1 sc in the next 2 st, then inv dec (15)

Stuff the body. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

White Patch on Tummy
Using white yarn: I worked this one in joined rounds (instructional video link), instead of continuous or spiral, to ensure that the shape turns out circular (so you'll begin with ch 1 and end with sl st in every round)

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6).
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st (12).
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18).
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (24).

Fasten off, and leave a tail for sewing to body.

Arms (Make 2)
Using light blue yarn. We're working from the hand to the arm

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 5 sc in it (5)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st around (10)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 5 times (15)
Rnd 4-5	1 sc in each st around (15) Start stuffing
Rnd 6	*1 sc in next st, then inv dec* repeat 5 times (10)
Rnd 7	*1 sc in next 2 st, then inv dec * repeat 2 times, then 1 sc in the last 2 st (8)
Rnd 8-9	1 sc in each st around (8)
Rnd 10-11	1 sc in each st around in the front loop only (8) Fasten off.  To make it look nicer, you may want to try this invisible join method. Add more stuffing.
Rnd 12	With a new light blue yarn, work in the back loops of Rnd 10, do *1 sc in the next 2 st, then inv dec* 2 times. (6)
Rnd 13-16	1 sc in each st around in both loops (6)

Finish stuffing, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs (Make 2)
Using light blue yarn

Rnd 1	Ch 5. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in the remaining 2 st.  Rotate your piece, and do 1 sc in each loop of the other side of the chain (8)
Rnd 2-6	1 sc in each st around

Stuff. Fasten off, and leave a long tail for sewing.

"Crown"
This part was a little complicated to figure out, so if you can think of any alternative techniques to make this, I'd really like to hear it.
Hopefully the instructions make sense.
We're going to start with the middle triangle.

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 4 sc in it (4)
Rnd 2	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 2 times (6)
Rnd 3	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 2 times (8)
Rnd 4	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 4 times (12)
Rnd 5	*1 sc in next st, then 2 sc in the next* repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 6	*1 sc in next 2 st, then 2 sc in the next * repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 7	Now we're going to work on the triangular tips on both sides.  1 sc in the next 11 st. Ch 12, and sl st into the next st (of the middle triangle) 1 sc in the next 11 st. Ch 12, and sl st into the next st to finish the round.

 

Rnd 8	1 sc in the next 11 st. Moving onto the chain, 1 sc in the bottom loop of the chain (12 sc all together), 1 sc in the next 11 st, then when you reach the chain, 1 sc in the bottom loop of the 12 chains. (46)
Rnd 9	1 sc in the next 16 st, (you should have reach the tip of farthest left or right point) 1 inv dec, 1 sc in the next 20 st (reach the other tip), 1 inv dec, 1 sc in the last 6 st.
Rnd 10	Now we're going to add the triangular flap that goes on the front of the head between the eyes. Sl st into the next 2 st. Ch 1. 1 sc in the next 7 st. Ch 1. Turn. (7 for the flap)
Rnd 11	Inv dec, 1 sc in the next 3 st, 1 inv dec (5)
Rnd 12	Inv dec, 1 sc in the next 2 st (4)
Rnd 13	Inv dec, 1 sc in the next st (3)
Rnd 14	Inv dec (1)

Fasten off. If you don't like the "rugged" edges on the two sides of your triangle, you can do a single crochet around that border to make it look nicer.

Now we're going to complete the other two "cones" on the top.  
To determine where to start, just remember that if you're right handed, you are crocheting right to left and clockwise, and the opposite for left-handed.

Rnd 1	Insert hook into the top of the first ch. Draw up a loop with the new yarn and ch 1. 1 sc into the same st, then 1 sc in the remaining 11 st. Connect to the middle triangle by doing 1 sc into one of the stitches there. (13)
Rnd 2	*1 sc in the next st, 1 inv dec* repeat 4 times, 1 sc (9)
Rnd 3	1 sc in each st around (9)
Rnd 4	Dec all around (repeat 4 times), then 1 sc (5)

Fasten off and hide the tail inside.
Do the same for the cone on other side.

Balls on the "Crown" (Make 3)
Using yellow yarn

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 6 sc in it (6)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3-4	1 sc in each st around (12) Start stuffing
Rnd 5	*1 sc in the next st, then inv dec* repeat 6 times (6)

Finish stuffing. You can close the hole (for example with the Ultimate Finish method?) and leave the tail for sewing.

Red Baton
Using red yarn. Lightly stuff.

Rnd 1	Make a magic ring with 3 sc in it (3)
Rnd 2	2 sc in each st around (6)
Rnd 3-6	1 sc in each st around (6) Start light stuffing
Rnd 7	*1 sc in the next st, then inv dec* repeat 2 times (4)
Rnd 8	1 sc in each st around (4)

Fasten off, and use the tail to sew to hand.

Yellow Flag
Using yellow yarn.

Rnd 1	Ch 9. Turn.
Rnd 2	Staring from 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each (8). Ch 1. Turn.
Rnd 3-5	1 sc in each st (8) Ch 1. Turn

Cut toothpick to your desired length (should be longer than what's showing to account for the bit you've poked into the hand). Paint it black (is the song stuck in your head?) with a permanent black felt or whatever you can find.  When it's dry, poke it through the side of the flag. 

Belt, Sash and Duct Tape on His Crown
For the next three parts: Because your Blue Badger's body may be bigger or smaller (depending on what hook you use / how tight you crochet), it's not really possible to give the number of chains you need for these three parts. 
I recommend wrapping the chain around yours frequently to see how many more chains you have to make.  
Another cool technique you may want to try that allows you to add length to a chain easily is doing a foundation single crochet, instead of a foundation chain. Check out the detailed photo & video tutorial from futuregirl blog.

Belt
Using black yarn

Rnd 1	Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 26).
Rnd 2	Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sash
Using grey yarn

Rnd 1	Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 39).
Rnd 2	Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Duct Tape
Using grey yarn

Rnd 1	Make a chain of ___ to fit your Blue Badger's body (I did around 18).
Rnd 2	Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in each ch.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Notes for Assembly:
-White tummy patch should go on before the belt, then the sash.
-For the belt buckle, I just take sew a rectangular shape over the belt using grey yarn.
-The triangular flap between the eyes may look like it's too big, but it will get smaller once you sew it onto the head.
-Eyes are made from a small white and a small black oval shaped piece of felt.

There you go. Have fun making your own Blue Badger! Blue is not your colour? There is a pink badger!

Pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell items made from it (charity okay). Please do not reproduce the pattern anywhere, but link to this post.  Thanks!

Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner III:Yarn

There're many options for yarn out there, and the most commonly recommended yarn for amigurumi is medium worsted weight acrylic yarn (the weight of the yarn refers to the thickness of the yarn). To keep your amigurumi's stitches tight, you'll want something a little more "sturdy".

What yarn to choose? Here are some other expert opinions:
• The Silver Hook: advantages of acrylic yarn
• Freshstitches: review of wool, animal yarns, cottom, soy and bamboo
• Nerdigurumi: a case for cotton yarn
(I got a small skein of cotton / acrylic blend the other day and I love it. The stitches are so crisp. That particular Bernat yarn is discontinued though, and others I've seen are on the expensive side though, so I'm going to treasure my little skein)
• Craft Passion: how to substitute yarn

Learn how to read the stuff on a yarn label
• Craft Yarn Council
• Lion Brand Blog

What else & my two cents:

• Start with a lighter colour: The first ball of yarn I got was black, since it's my favourite colour, and I figure black will come in handy, but what I learned afterwards is that darker yarn makes it harder to see the stitches. No wonder I was having a hard time figuring out where I was supposed to insert the hook and where one stitch ends and the next stitch begins.
(Oh, and did you know that there are actually crochet hooks that will light up so you can see the stitches more clearly? Weird stuff.)

• Start with a cheaper and thicker yarn: Yarn is relatively cheap anyway when you consider how you can usually make a few amigurumi projects out of one skein. The various ones I've bought range from $3.99 Cdn to $6.99. While I sometimes find the cheaper ones (like the super saver kinds) are actually easier to crochet with, I do prefer the feel of the ones that are softer (like the Red Heart Soft Touch or the Bernat Satin). The problem with those is that in the beginning, when I wasn't used to the motions of crocheting, not to mention I was probably poking in all the wrong places and had to redo stitches frequently, I found the yarn split easily and that got me even more confused.  I would suggest trying a cheap and thicker yarn as a starter to minimize the frustration.

Be sure to check out Planet June's experiment with different yarn (pic source: Planet June)

• Be careful about mixing your yarn: It's usually not recommended to mix different brands of yarn in one project, even if they claim that they're all medium worsted weight. Planet June has an excellent test of which yarns are interchangeable with which.
Having said that, sometimes it's unavoidable when only a certain brand has that perfect colour you need. You may have to do an increase / decrease to adjust as you're crocheting along.

• Shine or no shine? Some yarn also has a shine to it (like Bernat Satin), and you may or may not like that effect, so watch for that.

• Giving your amigurumi to babies and kids?  You may want to look for yarn that is washable.

Here're the websites of some common yarn brands. The sites are also good for free patterns.
• Red Heart
• Bernat
• Lion Brand
• Patons
• Caron
• Lily Sugar'n Creme
• Michael's Loops & Threads

Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner II:Crochet Hooks

My Go-To Clover E 3.5mm Soft Touch Crochet Hook

The beauty of amigurumi is that it doesn't require a lot of tools. I remember at one point I was looking at scrapbooking and it didn't take long to realize that it's quite the expensive hobby.  However, for amigurumi and crochet, all you really need is a crochet hook (and you can get by with one size), a yarn needle, a pair of scissors and some pins.  You may already have the last two items lying around in the house, or you can look in your local dollar store for them.

Here are two articles about crochet hooks:
• Nerdigurumi: An overview of the different parts of a hook, and a comparison of various brands.
• The Itsy Bitsy Spider: Another overview, a size chart (US and metric size), plus a look at crochet hooks made from different materials and how they affect your crocheting.

Learn how to hold a crochet hook:
• Crochet Spot: Photos on two most common methods: the pencil and the knife holds.

What else and my two cents:
• Each yarn label will tell you the recommended size of hook to use. For amigurumi projects, you usually use a hook one or two sizes smaller than the suggested size because you need to crochet tightly so no stuffing shows through.
• If you are having trouble inserting your hook in the stitches, that means you're crocheting too tightly and you can try a bigger hook. If your work ends up having more holes and the stuffing is showing, you should go one size down.
• A related concept is gauge, and that's another nice thing about amigurumi: you don't have to worry about gauge. Your creation usually doesn't have to "fit" someone, unlike crocheted clothing for example.
• What's your favourite crochet hook? The hook I used the most is the Size E Clover Soft Touch. I first started crocheting with another brand without the thumb rest, but after using the Clover kind, I'm never going back. (Make it more comfy to hold your hooks with pencil grips. Check out the tutorial on Instructables.)
• Be prepared for some aches and pain in your hands, especially in the beginning. Here's a good reminder video to keep your hand relaxed while crocheting.

Source: howcast & Lion Brand studio

Next up: Yarn

Amigurumi Basics by a Beginner I: General Introduction

If you've been in awe of amazing amigurumi creations... (here are some of my favourites)

By Flickr user voxmortuum

By Croshame

By Crafty Is Cool

...and are wondering whether you should learn how to make amigurumi (and the answer is yes!), start with these general introductions so you can get an idea of what you're up against.

• All About Ami: An excellent starting point if you want to learn more about amigurumi (materials and basic stitches)
• Freshstitches: Download the free eBook, including a penguin pattern.
• Craft Passion: Another quick guide to amigurumi.
• If books are more your kind of thing, you should definitely check out The Complete Idiot's Guide to Amigurumi by June Gilbank from your local library. It's got everything in it, seriously!

Next up: Crochet Hooks and Yarn and Other Materials

Upcoming Posts: Amigurumi Basics by A Beginner

One day, I'll make you, Doraemon, I promise!

Three months ago, I dug up the amigurumi kit I've hidden in my closet for eight years, pulled out the hook and yarn, and watched my first video on how to crochet. With all the wonderful tutorials, tips and patterns others have shared online, I've discovered a wonderful and relaxing (mostly) hobby that I think will stick with me for a long time.
I thought while I still have a newbie mind and still remember all the things I struggle through, I'm going to write down all the things I've gathered online so far in my upcoming posts. I for one was, and still am, constantly stumped by instructions in patterns, which often include terms that may be second nature to seasoned crocheters but are totally baffling to beginners. (I still remember the first time I saw "FO". What is FO and how to do it?) I've had my share of digging up explanations online, so hopefully all this stuff I've gathered will save you some time.

Learn: Adding Hair to Amigurumi

I'm working on a gift for a coworker, who is sadly moving back to the States, and I am going to have to figure out how to add hair to my amigurumi. (Um...I don't think the three strands on Wimpy Kid's Greg Heffley count).
Thought I'd share the following posts and tutorials to showcase the different ways of attaching hair:

1. Owlishly

Method:  Create a wig cap (which is basically crocheting half of the head in the hair colour), then embroider hair on top of it strand by strand to style the look.
This is by far the most intense method, but just look at the results! So natural and so beautiful. It's worth all the extra work I think. Just check out some of her work if you are still unsure of the time required.
Unfortunately the yarn she used (Bernat Cool Crochet in Chocolate) is discontinued :(

2. EssHaych

Method: Latch hook style, adding hair one strand at a time directly onto head.
It looks pretty time consuming too, but perhaps a good one if you want a fuzzier look.  Another look at this method can be found on Ana Paula's Amigurumi Patterns & Random Cuteness.

3. NeedleNoodles

Method: Making a fringe and then sewing that to the head.
As the author suggested, it's easier and  faster than doing it strand by strand.  I've tried it by winding the hair around a cardboard and it seems to work just as well, if you don't have the fancy tool.
Updated Sep 28: another tutorial on Woolly Toons

4. K and J Dolls Blog

Method: A blend of #2 and #3. Using the cardboard method to create equal length hair strands, then grabbing multiple strands together and sewing the bunch directly onto the head.

Other tips I've found:
-K and J Dolls Blog: you can do the top half of the head in the hair colour if you don't want to create a wig.
-MyGurumi: use fuzzy / eyelash yarn to create hair quickly, or try doing bobbles.
-By Hook, By Hand: A Flickr step by step photo tutorial on how to create wigs
-Xanadoodle: Here's a fun explanation on how to create different hairstyles using Star Trek characters as examples.
-Regardless of the method you use, you almost always start with determining your amigurumi's hairline.
-Get some thinner yarn to make a more natural look.
-Thick curly hair can be done by making a chain, then adding a longer stitch (hdc instead of sc for example) at regular intervals, or by crocheting increases all the way through. The yarn will naturally curl.  For thinner curly hair, you may try unwinding your yarn into its individual strands.

Looking forward to trying some of these hair styles.

Free Crochet Pattern Roundup: Shark Week

I don't understand what the deal is with Shark Week, but here are some really cool shark crochet patterns. Thanks again for sharing them, you generous people!

Look at this adorable shark hat for the whole family.

Free pattern from Crochet Today

Love the mouth on this shark amigurumi. The pattern includes photo tutorial on how to do the open mouth

Free pattern from Karen's Knittin' Crap

Yikes, scuba diver, watch out for that shark

Free pattern from Yarn Juleps on the Veranda

How about something not as scary?

Free pattern from Rikka Mitsam (PDF)